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Religion in China Part 1: Confucianism

Religion in China has a long and varied history. Through devout ancient worship of ancestors to today’s atheist Communist Party, China has seen its share of belief structures. Today, only five religions are officially recognized by the Chinese government: Buddhism, Taoism/Daoism, Islam, Catholicism and Protestantism. In this three-part series, I will be taking an individual look at two of the more unique religions in the country plus an unrecognized one that is widely practiced: Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism/Daoism.

A brief history of religion in China

In the ancient dynasties of China’s origins ancestor worship was the belief of the time. People set up elaborate altars to invite and respect family members who had crossed before them. Divination practices, such as oracle bones, were highly regarded.

Confucianism was adopted in the Han Dynasty. It was also during this time that Buddhism made its first appearance in the country, believed to come by way of India through the Silk Road. Emperors began to rule under a mandate of divine appointment, believing their placements were ordained by the gods.

Prayer ribbons flap in the breeze at the Shanghai Confucian Temple. Asking for favor, there are three main important goals in Confucianism: 1. To get married 2. To meet a friend/acquaintance in an unusual place 3. To find your name on the passing list for government employment exams. — Prayer ribbons flap in the breeze at the Shanghai Confucian Temple. Asking for favor, there are three important goals in Confucianism: 1. To get married 2. To meet a friend/acquaintance in an unusual place 3. To find your name on the passing list for government employment exams.

During the period of Many Dynasties, schools of Buddhism began to grow throughout the land, underpinned by the teachings of Confucius. It was also during this time that philosopher Lao Tzu developed the foundation for Taoism/Daoism.

Throughout the Tang to the Ming dynasties, these three religions enjoyed ups and downs, freedom and oppression depending on the whims of the ruling class. As the land became more open to foreigners during the Ch’ing Dynasty, Europeans introduced Christianity to the Chinese people. Under the Republic of China, religious freedom was enjoyed, and many religious structures, such as churches, synagogues, mosques and temples, were built.

After the Communist Party’s victory and the rise of Mao Zedong in 1949, the People’s Republic of China took a hostile approach to religion. Atheism became the designated stance of the nation, and many religious buildings were turned into government offices.

With the end of the Cultural Revolution and the adoption of the 1978 Constitution of the PRC, religious freedom with restriction has been granted in the country. An ongoing revitalization of religious structures can be seen throughout China, but some beliefs, such as Falun Gong, are perceived to be a threat to the government and still face oppression and human rights violations.

Who was Confucius?

During a time known as the Warring States, a low-level magistrate yearned for peace as many kings with their strong armies attempted to take over their neighbors (think Game of Thrones). He believed that to create a congenial society, people must develop respect for each other through gaining knowledge. If he could teach the barbaric warlords literature, art, poetry and music, then this knowledge would lead to the respect needed for peace.

The youngest and only able-bodied son, Confucius was born in roughly 550 BC to a 72-year-old father and 18-year-old mother after nine sisters and one sickly brother. Later in life, he would come into government work and befriend Lao Tzu, who would be an early mentor for him.

Encouraged by Lao Tzu, Confucius left government work to spread his teachings on how culture was needed to influence politics for peace. Though largely ignored, he did set up schools that taught his philosophies. As it so often happens, his teachings would not find fame or appreciation until after his death around 480 BC.

What is Confucianism?

Though I’m classifying the philosophy into the religious category for the purpose of this blog series, Confucianism is more of a humanism than a spiritual religion. The ethical system focuses on the scholarly study of humanities to become the best possible person. There are many teachings in Confucianism that deal with society, government, the state of humanity, life at home and much more. Entire series of books have been written on Confucianism, so for the sake of brevity, I will focus on two of my favorite Confucius quotes and how they relate to the philosophy.

1. Real knowledge is to know the extent of one’s ignorance.

As the cornerstone, Confucius always strove for knowledge. No matter how much you learn, there is always more to learn. No mater who you meet or what you experience, there is knowledge to be gained.

2. Do not do unto others what you would not have them do unto you.

Look familiar? The good ole’ golden rule (and just a side note, every religion in the world has some similar belief). In Chinese, there is a concept known as “ren” or 仁. It most closely translates to altruism in Western culture. Man may not be born good or evil, but his actions are what speaks and defines him.

Confucianism in China

Much of China’s culture, society and government has been influenced by the teachings of Confucius. As proper etiquette was so enforced in Confucianism, we still see this in the traditions of Chinese tea ceremonies. Until 1911, to obtain a job with the government, imperial exams were given that tested a person’s grasp of Confucianism concepts. The Communist Party’s ideal of keeping everyone the same pay levels comes from Confucius’ believe of equality among all people. The high regard for one’s parents in Chinese culture comes from the Confucius belief that loyalty to personal positions and relationships was of the utmost importance.

Religions in China Part 1: Confucianism — Confucius began from humble beginnings to reach a god-like stature after his death. His philosophy included lifelong learning, loyalty, respect and kindness

Throughout history, Confucianism has come in and out of favor in China. During the early 20th Century, Confucianism principles were blamed for China’s economic downturn. Scholars were ridiculed and persecuted during the Cultural Revolution. Presently, though, there has been a revival in Confucianism thought, even movements to change the Chinese National Teacher’s Day to Sept. 28, the believed birthday of Confucius.

Your thoughts on Confucianism?

Confucianism has not only influenced China, but scholars and societies around the world have put actions in place based on the philosophy. What do you think of Confucianism? What would you like to learn more about? Do you have a favorite Confucius quote?

-Monica

Get well soon: The healing power of Traditional Chinese Medicine

Get well soon: The healing power of Chinese Traditional Medicine — Maybe the oddest Chinese herb, this spider-looking species is half plant, half insect. The crossbreed can only grow on the plateaus in the Himalayan Mountains as the wind carries fungus spores and deposits them in the larvae of moths founds in the area. As the larvae and spore grow, the winter worm or summer grass is then harvested to be used as cough suppressants and other Yang supplements.

Western Doctor: What are your symptoms?

Chinese Doctor: How are you feeling?

Western Doctor: What is your temperature and blood pressure?

Chinese Doctor: How is your energy?

Western Doctor: Take these tablets three times a day for one week. Call me if you’re not better in seven days.

Chinese Doctor: Drink this tea each day for two weeks and concentrate on seeking balance. Come back in after two weeks and let’s see where your energy is.

The Philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine

Chalked up to a combination of being raised on Southern favorites made with too much Crisco and sugar; trying every dish under the sun as we moved around; and learning to live with a lackadaisical standard of cleanliness in food consumption has made my stomach an enemy of state to my body. My symptoms are in line with Celiac Disease. To spare you the messy details, we’ll just say when attacks occur, it’s not pretty.

At the height of the symptoms, I sought out treatment through Traditional Chinese Medicine as I wanted to experience a new form of medical care. I was seen and treated at the Body & Soul Medical Clinics, a mix of Western and Chinese doctors specializing in TCM. While I’ve been treated at the facility, I have learned and experienced a lot about this ancient form of medicine and health.

To start, there are two overarching concepts provide the basis of the practice:

Get well soon: The healing power of Traditional Chinese Medicine — The Yin and Yang are “inseparable forces that complement and depend on each other.” photo credit: easyflow via photopin cc

1. Yin & Yang

When I was in middle school, I loved to draw the Yin & Yang symbol. Half of my pre-teen jewelry collection had something to do with this emblem, but I really had no idea what it meant. It just looked cool.

After visiting the Body & Soul Medical Clinics and speaking with Dr. Doris Rathgeber, the general manager, it was explained to me, in the medical sense, as “inseparable forces that complement and depend on each other.” (As I have also learned in the spiritual sense, it can also mean there is good and evil in everyone.)

The Yin, the darker half, represents the inner source and the more female attributes. Organs classified in the Yin property include the liver, heart, spleen, lungs and kidneys. These are considered “solid and are occupied with the production, preservation and regulation of the body’s basic substances.”

The Yang, the lighter half, depicts the outer source and the more male characteristics. Organs in the Yang property include the gall bladder, small intestine, stomach, large intestine, urinary bladder, and major glands that work together with the lungs, spleen and kidneys to disperse liquid in the body. Characteristics of these organs “are hollow and have the task to receive, discern and excrete the body substances.”

Both halves make up the whole existence of a person, and when an ailment occurs, the halves are out of proportion.

As part of this concept is the relationship between blood and qi, or the life energy. The most important substances in TCM, they work together to form the physical, mental and spiritual body. “Qi represents the active energy Yang, and blood represents the passive energy Yin.”

2. The 5 Elements

As in nature-bound philosophies, there are organic elements that affect our sense of well-being. In TCM, these elements correspond to a major organ system in the body:

Wood – Liver
Fire – Heart
Earth – Spleen
Metal – Lung
Water – Kidney

As these natural elements interact in a constant motion with each other, the body’s systems depend on each other for health. When they are out of sync with each other, disease occurs. Treatment consists of balancing these elemental systems.

Diagnosis with Traditional Chinese Medicine

In Western medicine, the body is observed and diagnosed in separation. If there is a problem with your foot, then just your foot is observed and treated. You take a Tylenol table for a headache and a Pepto-Bismol dose for your stomach. In the East, the body is considered as one energy system acting in a dynamic interaction with all elements. All of it must be considered to diagnose the problem.

In my first consultation at the clinic, the doctor observed my overall appearance, asked about my daily eating and sleeping habits, and performed a tongue and pulse measurement.

It is believed in TCM that the appearance of the tongue can speak to the functions of the inner body. On the back of the tongue, conditions of the kidney, bladder and intestines are shown; the right and left sides of the tongue are connected to the gallbladder and liver; the middle of the tongue relates to the symptoms of the stomach and spleen; and the tip of the tongue presents the case of the lungs and heart.

The pulse is checked in the hands and wrists. This diagnostic test tells the doctor about various workings in the body, such as energy levels, presence of dehydration and/or retention, and the possibility of blockages.

Treatment with Traditional Chinese Medicine

I (try very hard to) drink a Chinese medicinal herbal tea every morning. It’s absolutely disgusting. I was informed, though, the TCM belief is the more bitter the taste, the better it works. Mine should be working miracles then.

Herbs and organic powders are highly regarded in TCM for their healing properties. My morning tea consists of powders from plant-based ingredients such as rhizoma atractylodis and semen ziziphi spinosae. Other powders can come from insects, bird excretions, bones and horns.

I was also prescribed a series of acupuncture sessions to realign my qi along certain meridians in my body. TCM is all about balance, be it between the Yin and Yang, the 5 elements, blood or qi. In acupuncture small needles are used to open and redirect meridians so the qi can flow more freely. In my sessions, needles were placed in the top of my head, between my thumb and forefinger, around my navel, and the bottoms of my legs. The pain was minimal, with the sorest point being my hands, which I was told was most aligned to my stomach. Heating lamps were then placed above the needles, and I was left to rest with the needles in place for about 45 minutes at each session.

Other treatments I’ve read and been told about include cupping, placing warm cups on the skin to create suction that encourages blood flow; gua sha or scraping, using the horn of an animal to brusquely move across the skin to draw toxins out; moxibustion, the burning of mugwort applied directly or indirectly to the skin to promote the movement of cold spots and warm meridians; and various massage techniques that target meridians and unique problem areas.

Exercise in Traditional Chinese Medicine

What we call exercises in the West actually have a much deeper spiritual and medical rationale in the East. These movements, such as Yoga and Tai-Chi, were developed as a means to prepare or treat the body in spirit as well as physicality.

Participating in a Tai-Chi class in China and Yoga in the States, I have learned how the gentle and fluid movements help with a multitude of physical abilities, such as flexibility and joint health, while these practices promote mental balance through meditation qualities. It’s also a plus that Tai-Chi is basically martial arts in slow motion.

West v. East?

When I follow the prescribed treatments in my TCM regiment as directed (I’m not the greatest patient), I can very much see and tell the difference in my body’s reaction to foods and my mental wellness. However, I still want my direct, in-and-out, to-the-point Western diagnosis and fix-me-up-quick treatment. The goal now is to combine these two forms to find a balance.

What style do you prefer? Would you be willing to try the Eastern version of medical care?

-Monica

An open apology letter to the U.S.

Dear United States,

We’ve been traveling in and out of your borders now for more than 15 months. We’ve lived on three continents, visiting more than 20 countries. Along the way, we’ve picked up some habits that won’t be considered “normal” or “acceptable” back inside the homeland. As we prepare to come back once again, this time for the longest visit since leaving in August 2012, we must apologize in advance for the transgressions we know we’ll unwittingly commit. So, by country we’ve lived in, please excuse:

An open apology letter to the U.S. — After sipping fresh coconut water on a Brazilian beach, mainland U.S. beaches just pale in comparison.

Brazil

1. Our constant beeping of the car horn. We’re not angry at you other drivers, really, we just want you to know we’re there or we’re coming to make an extra lane because there’s space between you and that semi. Just beware the long car horn, then we’re angry.

2. If we look at disgust at the packaged and processed fruit juices in the grocery store. Where is the coconut water or fresh watermelon juice?

3. Our visible disappointment at the mainland beaches. After Brazil, you really just can’t compare.

4. If our bathing suits seem a bit inappropriate for public use, especially in front of children.

Switzerland

5. Us just saying it: the chocolate sucks.

6. Us as we lament about the lack of good public transportation. What do you mean Amtrack is late?

7. If we forget and start to fill up our water bottle at a outdoor fountain, please stop and remind us where we are.

8 . If we flip out on you for playing music or having a TV on, talking loudly, or even taking a shower after 10 p.m. Respect the quiet hours!

China

9. If we invade your personal space. We’ve kind of forgotten what those parameters are anymore.

10. If we forget to wait for you to exit a subway car or taxi or we shove and push you in a crowd, elbows out. We don’t mean it personally, you’re just in our way, we’re in a hurry, and we don’t notice your existence.

11. Our lax standards on sanitation. The dish has a hair in it? Just one? It’s still good. You dropped a utensil on the floor? A piece of candy? Haven’t you heard of the ~~five~~ 10 20-second rule?

12. If we don’t wait for you, the pedestrian, in a crosswalk. Don’t you know we, in our banged-up Pontiac or on our rusted moped, have the right-of-way? We will hit, or at least bump, you.

United States, you’re our home, and we’ll will always love you. It’s really not you, it’s us. We’ve just come to love so many others. Please forgive us if we offend you. We do, though, look forward to seeing you again soon.

Sincerely,

Chris & Monica

P.S.

As we make the transition from six-month stints to a more permanent stay somewhere, we’ll be taking a few weeks off from the blog with a trip to Tibet thrown in the mix. We’ll be posting again Jan. 8, 2014. Happy Holidays!

Pour me a hot one: Experiencing a Chinese tea ceremony

As in Morocco, tea has a deep cultural meaning for China. From parents discussing marriage arrangements to business deals of mega-millions to catching up with friends on a Sunday afternoon, personal and professional discussions are held throughout the country over small cups of various brews. Vice President Joe Biden even took part in a tea ceremony during his official visit to China last week.

If not in the tea houses, then you will find most people walking around with canisters of tea leaves, easily refillable with the many hot water dispensers found in offices, malls, train stations, airports and pretty much anywhere there is electricity. Read any travel book on China, and you’re sure to find mention of the Chinese people never far from one these flasks.

What does that have to do with the price of tea in China?

The history of tea in China is a convoluted one. Some accounts claim an ancient emperor was boiling drinking water on a particularly windy day when some foliage was blown into his cup. Not immediately removing the leaves, he discovered the tasty drink the mishap had created. For his book Oracle Bones, Peter Hessler interviewed a Chinese scholar, Victor Mair, in which the professor claims tea came from trading in the south, and that it was first viewed as a “barbarian drink … compare it to urine.” In the 15th Century, the famed British East India Company brought tea from China to England and eventually the New World.

Today, the tea business is a global industry worth billions of dollars. With research proving the wide array of health benefits and a developing taste worldwide, tea consumerism is on the rise.

Coming from the Camellia sinensis bush, the leaf buds of the plant are harvested in the spring and fall. The spring harvest is considered more valuable and organic. The buds are then used to make six types of Chinese tea:

1. White

The most delicate of the flavors, white tea comes from the soft fur still on the young tea leave buds. The leaves come from Fu Ding, a high and rocky environment where the fermentation is a sun-dried process. This tea can only be infused up to two times. Health benefits include use as a anti-inflammatory and a deterrent in cognitive diseases.

2. Green

Green tea is produced by roasting the leaves, oxidizing the flavor through direct contact with a heat source. The leaves come from An Ji, best known as the beautiful area of Yellow Mountain. Depending on the length of the oxidization process, the tea can have a nutty, fruity or floral flavor. The leaves can be infused up to four times. Green tea is believed to lower risks of cancer, osteoporosis and depression.

3. Yellow

The hardest of the teas to acquire, yellow tea comes from Huo Shan. The tea is roasted at higher temperatures than green tea and is pressurized. Providing a citrus flavor, this tea can be infused up to 15 times. Yellow tea is used as an aid in digestion.

4. Wu Long

Roasted on fire than twisted, wu long tea leaves endure a harsher oxidation process. This tea is used in the most formal Chinese tea ceremony and produces a more bitter floral taste. It can be infused up to eight times.

5. Red/Black

The strongest of the flavors, red/black tea is what is most familiar for Westerners. Produced by companies such as Lipton, this tea is seeped excessively and creates a bitter taste.

6. Dark

The most fermented, therefore the most flavorful and valuable of the teas, dark tea comes from the Hunan Province. With a strong astringent taste, this tea is drank after especially heavy or greasy meals for its digestion benefits. Infusion can take place up to 20 times. Dark tea is believed to lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels.

Mastering a Chinese tea ceremony

Sponsored by the Shanghai Expatriate Association, I recently attended a traditional Chinese tea ceremony with the Shanghai & Beyond tour agency at the Moonlight Tea House. Our guides, Tracy Lesh and Michael Wang, have been running tours about Chinese tea culture and water towns for the past several years. They enlisted the help of a local tea shop owner who had studied tea and the art of the ceremony at university to serve as the la shu gung fu or “skilled teacher” for the event.

As we were seated, the tea shop owner stood at the head of the long table behind her tea set. She wore no makeup, jewelry or perfume as any of these could potentially taint the smell or flavor of the tea. She bowed and welcomed us in Chinese to the ceremony. She then took her seat and began bringing her instruments, the tea pot and cups, to a temperature accommodating to a gentle seep. Unlike in the West, Chinese tea is not meant to seep long, only enough to open the buds and release the flavor.

The teacher first heated the purified water to a temperature of about 80 degrees Celsius, as most of the teas don’t need to be seeped any hotter (another mistake we make in the West). During the ceremony, we tried five of the six types of tea, only excluding the red/black category. The la shu gung fu started with the white tea and moved down the list, ending with the dark tea.

As each gesture is beautifully coordinated, the teacher demonstrated “orchard fingers,” the flowing hand movements she used to prepare the tea without ever touching the leaves. It was as if she was performing a ballet with her hands.

Video courtesy of Annie Kim

After the first batch of each tea was made, she would discard it as this is not meant to be consumed but just used to open up the leaves. The leaves are then re-infused for the sampling.

To drink, etiquette dictates that you hold the small cup by the thumb and forefinger, using the middle finger to support the bottom. Ladies are expected to use their left hand to cover the cup while you sip. Like wine, drinking the tea is a three-step process:

1. Slurp the tea in while you take air into your mouth. This helps oxidize the tea.
2. Hold it in your mouth while you roll your tongue. This allows all of your taste buds to experience the tea.

3. Swallow.

After we finished the samples, the la shu gung fu then stood, bowed and wished us great health to conclude the ceremony.

Your own Chinese tea ceremony

How do you like your tea? For the first worktrotter to leave a comment below by Dec. 31, I’ll send you a package of green tea. Cheers to you!

-Monica

A work of art: Learning to create Chinese calligraphy

The master calligrapher shows the class how to draw the character for "Shanghai." In Chinese tradition, calligraphy was one of four arts to be accomplished by a gentleman scholar. — Working with the black ink, the master calligrapher shows the class how to draw the character for “Shanghai,” 上海. In Chinese tradition, calligraphy was one of four arts to be accomplished by a gentleman scholar.

If I had been a student in the Chinese school system, I would have utterly failed my penmanship course. My English script is already a close comparison to, as my dad would say, chicken scratch, and the Chinese style is more akin to drawing. Chinese calligraphy is an art form in and of itself, and I, severely lacking in that department, made a mess of my attempt at creating the beautiful characters.

A short history of Chinese calligraphy

The Chinese writing system is an ancient one, only behind Sumerian cuneiform and Egyptian hieroglyphics. The characters are pictographs of what they represent, and, therefore, there are no letters as we know them in Chinese writing. The word for writing in Chinese, shu, literally translates to “to resemble.”

According to Peter Hessler’s Oracle Bones, a legend holds that the characters were created by a demigod as he observed animals and the tracks they left. As he witnessed these recognizable prints each species made, the demigod began to create a system that copied images in nature. Even today, if you look in the right way, representations can be seen in the shape of Chinese characters. For example, the traditional and modern Chinese character for “person” is “人.” In this character you can see a resemblance to the legs of a person, a stick figure with no head or arms.

Hessler goes on to explain how once in ancient times the characters reached a point where they couldn’t explain abstract concepts, people turned to sounds to create the representations. Characters that already represented sounds were then combined to create these ideas in writing. Today, there are more than 10,000 characters in the common usage, and accounts claim more than 100,000 in ancient text.

Though, in my opinion, a difficult language to master and an even more complex writing system to learn, the Chinese characters embody the significance of the Chinese culture. While Westerners have led a push for a simpler system with an alphabet, resistance to this idea is understandable. The system, however, was reformed under communist leader Mao Zedong, being granted legal status in 1941. Today, most common writings, such as schoolwork, are completed in this simplified format. As a result, only those who have studied the form can read and write in the traditional system. Reform also saw the characters turned into a Latin-based format, so you will also see Chinese written in English characters in some instances, such as street signs.

Chinese calligraphy as an art form

As part of an InterNations Chinese Art & Culture seminar, I recently attended a class in Chinese calligraphy taught by a master calligrapher. Watching the flow of his brush, how his hand so delicately moved, was captivating. His grace in designing the characters was truly an artistic expression formed on paper. And, then there was me with blobs and splatters of ink all over the page. I think I might have just offended the teacher as he looked away from the mess I was making of his craft.

Chinese calligraphy is known as art form throughout the world. You see it decorating canvases, vases and buildings. In the West, much to the bemusement of the Chinese, we even have characters tattooed on us that we believe represent an important value. If you want to highly insult someone in China, do a sloppy job of writing his name in Chinese, especially slanting the top half of the pictograph.

There are only three colors in Chinese calligraphy: the white of the paper, the black of the ink, and the red used to make the stamps. There are soft and hard brushes made from sheep wool, wolf, fox or tiger fur, horse hair, and even the hair of a human baby. Softer brushes are used to make thick lines, and the harder brushes make the delicate thin strokes.

There is a systematic process to drawing each character. First, the calligrapher must hold the brush in a particular way. Using a paint-by-the-number system, each stroke must then be made in a certain sequence. The strokes must also be of precise lengths and thicknesses. The entire method is extremely meticulous.

Chinese calligraphy for you

Is there a character in Chinese you would like to know how to create? Let me know in the comments by Dec. 13, and I will try to get you the instructions to do so.

-Monica

Dining on the streets: A Shanghai street food tour photo post

A couple of weekends ago, Chris’ co-worker, Caroline, a local Shanghainese, took us on a Shanghai street food tour in the Qibao Ancient Town district. With my distaste for Asian food and fear of food poisoning, I have mainly refrained from the plentiful street food vendors throughout the city. I was excited, though, to have a local guide who could explain what the odd foods were and make sound recommendations.

Without further ado, I present a photo story of how our exciting cuisine adventure unfolded.

Candied fruit is a popular sweet treat. Chris' favorite of the day was the glazed-covered crab apples with the edible wrapping. — Candied fruit is a popular sweet treat. Chris’ favorite of the day was the glazed-covered crab apples with the edible wrapping.

Lotus root is known for its many medicinal benefits, such as soothing an upset stomach. Here, it is boiled and ready for a wide variety of dishes, such as stir-fry.

At the end of the tour, we were bursting at the seams. It was a great experience, made even better by the fact we didn’t get sick due to Caroline’s expert guidance. We now have a better sense about what street foods to order, and we plan to put that knowledge to use soon. What’s your favorite street food?

-Monica

WorkLife Travel Destination: Charleston

A close cousin to Savannah, Charleston, S.C., has its own brand of Southern charm. A slower pace carries the breeze from the harbor through the Spanish moss, and you can feel the old aristocratic presence this city is still known for today. A staple in the Lowcountry, Charleston is a step back in time.

Favorite Charleston Places

Forts Sumter and Moultrie

Known as the spot where the U.S. Civil War began, the Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Monument operated by the National Park Service offers history buffs and families a walk through history. Within the fortified walls, you’ll find Union and Confederate memorabilia. Outside the walls, you can view the American Indians Osceloa’s grave.

Page’s Thieves Market

Located in nearby Mt. Pleasant, Page’s Thieves Market is an antique and auction house with unique Southern finds. From period furniture to zany advertisements, you can discover all matters of treasures here.

U.S. 17 Coastal Highway

Take a ride out of town down this scenic highway where Spanish moss grows abundantly and you can smell the salt in the air. Be sure to stop by one of the many stands all along the highway where the Gullah sell their sweetgrass baskets and other weavings.

Historical Walk

With a rich history and a major city in the Civil War period, Charleston has preserved many of its historical landmarks. Places such as the Nathaniel Russell House have been turned into museums and can be toured for a look back at how decor and life were in those times.

Another significant architectural nod to Charleston is its many historical churches. From the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist to the French Protestant Huguenot Church, it’s no wonder these many well-preserved places of worship have earned the city the nickname “The Holy City.”

Theater 99

Chris’ high school friend, Dusty Slay, is a comedian who regularly performs at Theater 99. Known for its improv performance, this “comedy hub of Charleston” provides a great place to try out your funny bone in classes or shows.

Charleston Eats

Known for its Southern cuisine and fresh seafood, there are plenty of options to satisfy any craving. We like Hominy Grill for its elegant twist on Southern classics. For a favorite Southern classic in its own South Carolina style, check out Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q joint for some great eats.

Matt Hutcheson, former Charleston resident and high school classmate, highly recommends Hyman’s Seafood. Beware, though, with the popularity of this place, long waits are the norm. If a burger is more to your taste, don’t miss Poe’s Tavern on Sullivan Island. With a theme in honor of Edgar Allen Poe’s time at Fort Moultrie, the restaurant is known for its unique burger combination, like the PB&J and jalapeno burger, and wide bar selection.

Speaking of burgers, Dusty’s favorite is at the Big Gun Burger Shop where he also hosts an open mic night. Combined with an extensive craft beer selection, this joint offers up the American classic not to be missed. Other recommendations include a pub crawl across town on a Sunday afternoon starting at Gene’s Haufbrau, the oldest bar in Charleston, hitting the many open-air bars downtown, and ending at The Rooftop Bar at The Vendue with an excellent view of the harbor. If the hipster scene is what you seek, Dusty says to check out the posh bars and restaurants north of Calhoun Street. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Upper Deck Tavern on King Street is the best dive bar in town. “The food and beverage scene is so good in Charleston that when I first moved here, I gained 40 pounds right away,” says Dusty.

Working in Charleston

Though laid back, Charleston has a thriving economy through its many businesses. Brian Still explains what makes the Palmetto City the place to consider home.

A former patient care tech in the Surgical Trauma Intensive Care Unit at the Medical University of South Carolina and now studying to be a doctor, Brian has lived and worked in Charleston since 2005. With fantastic year-round weather, his commute to the university each day is made easy with the views of the ocean and the smell of the saltwater in the air.

After work, he enjoys the social scene in the many restaurants and nightlife options offered by the city. “Another great advantage to Charleston is that it is a city that loves to showcase its love for everything culinary. There are so many restaurants and all of them are so delicious that there is never a shortage of new places to eat,” Brian says. “Charleston, probably more than any city I’ve been to, also caters to people who like to have a drink while they socialize. The nightlife in Charleston is one of its major selling points for most people of all ages.”

If you’re a pet lover, then Charleston is the place to be. According to Brian, the best part of Charleston is its affinity toward our furry four-legged friends. “Charleston is a city that caters to canines. You can bring your dog pretty much ANYWHERE in this city,” he says. “There are outdoor malls, dog-friendly beaches, dog parks, and nearly every restaurant has patio seating for people who bring their dogs. There are even some bars that allow dogs!”

On the weekends, Brian can be found at the many events held around the city outdoors. “Charleston is also a city that does not take its free time lightly … there are numerous events and activities happening all over town like art walks through the downtown art galleries, charity motorcycle rides, you name it! The majority of them are outdoors (the beautiful weather I was talking about) and most include some kind of alcoholic beverage.”

As his final piece of advice, Brian suggests being prepared to fall in love with Charleston upon your first visit. “The only recommendation I have for people who are considering visiting is, don’t visit unless you would consider moving because myself, like many others, came to visit and ended up never leaving!”

We give Charleston a 7+. What is your favorite city in South Carolina?

-Monica

What a ride: Celebrating one year of W2LL2T

From Brazil to Switzerland to China, from Portuguese to German to Mandarin, it’s been a thrilling and challenging experience. One year ago this week we launched the Working 2 Live, Living 2 Travel blog three months after moving to São Paulo. For the past 15 months we’ve been moving internationally every six months, attempting to learn a new language, adapting to a new culture, making new friends, and all the other adventures that come along with travel. In celebration of the blog’s one-year anniversary, we’ve compiled our top five lessons learned since undertaking this adventure.

It’s never been easier to stay in touch with old friends or to make new friends

We’ve often told friends that we can’t imagine what it would have been like traveling in the 1970s, 1980s or maybe even the 1990s before the advent of Skype, Facebook and other means of free or cheap communication tools. With Google Voice, we’re able to call any American phone for free to reach those who do not use modern technology. A VPN allows us to regain communication tools and hometown newspapers blocked in particular destinations. This technology makes it much easier to see the world while still staying in touch with all the happenings back home.

When traveling, we’re cautious but also open. We listen to others’ stories and often stay in hostels or other areas frequented by travelers. We hear new ideas and make new friends. Occasionally, we stay in touch using the same communication means mentioned above and we may meet some of our closest future friends on any weekend trip. While you fear losing friends each time you move, our lifestyle has helped us gain more friendships rather than less. Many of those friendships become stronger as they endure time and great distances.

You will never completely be at home again because part of your heart will always be elsewhere. That is the price you pay for the richness of loving and knowing people in more than one place.

Speak the local language when possible and always listen

Upon his return from two years in Mozambique, our friend, Daniel, told us that the more you learn the language, the more you are able to understand the culture. He was completely right. In each place we’ve resided, the more we learn of a language, the more we have been able to join in local customs and understand the idiosyncrasies of locals. Even the smallest amount of knowledge on the local language goes a long way. Many complain that the French refuse to speak English even when fluent. This will likely be true if you approach a person in Paris and immediately begin speaking English. However, even the simple effort to say “Bonjour Monsieur/Madame parlez-vous anglais?” will often reap enough benefits to carry on in conversation. We’re really struggling with the four tones of the Chinese language and several meanings for words that appear the same but every effort counts.

Wherever you go, resist the urge to talk more than you listen. Each traveler carries so many stories and if you will stop to listen rather than spilling out your own, as in almost any environment, you will learn so much more.

There is a reason we have two ears and one mouth.

Plan but be spontaneous

We know people who research vehemently before heading to their next destination and layout an agenda of everywhere they want to go. While it’s a good idea to be informed, we recommend setting priorities rather than specific times. Before departing, we use sites like WikiTravel, WikiVoyage and TripAdvisor as well as recommendations from friends to compile a list of destinations and sometimes directions on how to get there. However, we don’t assign times, only priorities (whether written or mental) on where we prefer to go.

Don’t be the guy who never leaves the neighborhood of his lodging but also don’t be the guy so busy that travel becomes more like a chore than an enjoyment. Don’t be afraid to accept that invitation to an awesome diner next door because it will throw you two hours behind on your schedule. You never know where your next travel story will come from. As for that list of priorities, each time we visit Paris we knock off the top few and leave the rest of the list for the next visit.

Why not seize the pleasure at once? How often is happiness destroyed by preparation, foolish preparation!

Don’t put off what you can do now – never miss an opportunity to see something today

If you’re afraid of how others worship or if you are offended by how others express their political views, then you’re missing amazing opportunities. We have witnessed Candomble ceremonies in northeastern Brazil, gathered with followers of the Pope on Easter Day in Rome, and dined with Muslims breaking fast at the end of each day during Ramadan. Each time we see people on Earth praise and worship the deity of their choice, we see more similarities and less differences in their ideas than we expected. Each time we hear someone give a stance on an issue, it may not change our stance on the issue at all but will open our minds and better educate us in defending our own stance. How can you be right and they be wrong if you never considered what the other side said or did?

As we look back today, we really wished we would have more thoroughly explored Mexico before it became severely plagued by cartels or that we would have visited Egypt prior to the rebellions. The lesson that we have taken from these circumstances is to take each opportunity that arises rather than pushing it to a later year. Wars, depressions and natural disasters can easily change those opportunities quite drastically over time.

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.

Don’t be owned by your material possessions

Before we left the U.S., we began renting out our Virginia home and placed some of our belongings in storage while selling or giving away others. While we sometimes miss our awesome Prohibition era home and Huntington Heights neighbors or a rainy Saturday in our living room decorated with New Orleans art, there is so much truth to what George Carlin says:

Chris’ grandmother once had a fire destroy much of her house and many of her possessions. While sharing wisdom with her many grandchildren and great-grandchildren, she often mentions that fire as the point when she learned to find treasures outside of materialistic possessions. Remember that with each pet, sofa or car that you gain, you lose mobility and your ability to travel. Photographs can be stored electronically today, adding to the possessions of e-books and downloaded entertainment that takes up space only in the virtual cloud rather than in our physical homes. We continue to collect art and memorable pieces to throw into storage for that future home once our travels are less frequent, but we continue to value sentimental memories recorded in our minds and on our hard drives over materialistic possessions.

It is the preoccupation with possessions, more than anything else that prevents us from living freely and nobly.

Here’s to our one-year anniversary with the hope of many more travel stories to share. Want to celebrate with us? Share what traveling has taught you in the comments. For the best lesson shared by Dec. 31, we’ll send you a set of decorative Chinese chopsticks. Happy Travels!

-Chris & Monica

WorkLife Travel Destination: Atlanta

Known as the New York City of the South, Atlanta holds great sentimental value for me. It is the city I started my career in, the city where I first started dating Chris and where I accepted his marriage proposal, and it is where I felt like a true bonafide adult for the first time. For professional and personal reasons, Atlanta is a great place to get your start.

Favorite Atlanta Places

World of Coca-Cola

Chris studied brand loyalty in business school, and he consistently teases me about my diehard loyalty to certain brands. Supposedly there are only two states in the Union that care so vehemently about their soda choice; Georgia for Coca-Cola and Kentucky for Pepsi. Split by family history to these two states, I am strictly a Coca-Cola drinker. Yes, there is very much a difference, and I refuse to drink Pepsi.

At the World of Coca-Cola, I can have my fill of my favorite beverage. Packed full of information about the soft drink from its historical beginnings in Georgia to its global market reach today, the exhibition is fun for all despite your refreshment preference. My favorite part is the tasting section where you can sample Coca-Cola from around the world. Throughout our many travels, I’m always curious to see what the famous formula tastes like in each country, and the samples in Atlanta match up quite well with their foreign counterparts.

Margaret Mitchell House

I don’t believe there is a kid in the Georgia public school system, or in the South for that matter, that gets through school without studying Margaret Mitchell’s classic Gone With The Wind. In midtown, you can tour the Margaret Mitchell House where the writer penned the novel of Scarlet O’Hara and Rhett Butler and all the other famous characters in the Civil War South. There is also an exhibition with interesting behind-the-scenes information about the movie.

Virginia Highland

When I moved into the city, I found a great little apartment on Ponce de Leon Avenue in the Virginia Highland neighborhood. Till this day, that one-bedroom apartment has been my favorite apartment I’ve ever lived in. I was within walking distance of great entertainment venues, food markets, unique shopping boutiques, art galleries, up-and-coming restaurants, and everything you could want from a neighborhood. If you’re looking for a nice Sunday brunch or lively happy hours, Virginia Highland has something for every taste.

Georgia Aquarium

The Georgia Aquarium had just opened when I moved to Atlanta at the beginning of 2006. The city’s tourism theme at that time was “Every day is opening day” due to the many restaurant, entertainment venues and other business openings consistently happening around the metropolis.

Debuting as the world’s largest aquarium, there are more than 100,000 sea creatures swimming in more than 10 million gallons of water. From dolphin shows to the only whale shark exhibit outside of Asia, the Georgia Aquarium offers breathtaking scenery with loads of educational resources on the animals of the oceans.

The Martin Luther King Jr. Center for Nonviolent Social Change

A powerful and moving museum dedicated to a main figure of the Civil Rights Movement, the Martin Luther King Jr. Center for Nonviolent Social Change is centrally located in a preserved historic district. Along with the many exhibits in the museum, visitors can also tour Ebenezer Baptist Church, the birth home and crypt of Dr. King, and more in the 23-acre National Historic Site.

Centennial Olympic Park

As home to the 1996 Olympics, the Centennial Olympic Park marks Atlanta’s historical hosting of the games. Today, the park is the site of many festivals and concert series. In the summer, large groups of bathing-suit-clad children can be seen running through the fountains.

Near the park are major landmarks, such as the CNN Center, Georgia Dome and Philips Arena. If a tour of a news studio or the home of the Atlanta Falcons and Hawks, respectively, isn’t your thing, a bit further out you can find Turner Field where the Atlanta Braves have been hitting home runs since 1997 and Zoo Atlanta, home to a recently-arrived pair of Panda cubs.

Atlanta Eats

Atlanta is known for its wide array of dining options. From posh gourmet to Southern favorites, you can satisfy any palette in the capital city.

One of my favorite restaurants of all time is a small Cuban joint on Ponce called Papi’s. My usual dish here is the flank steak with black beans and rice and fried plantains (I’m getting hungry just writing about this). Chris must have barbecue from Fat Matt’s Rib Shack anytime we’re in town. Usually we only recommend places with good food, but if you’re a first timer to Atlanta, you have to check out The Varsity. The food is lousy, but the service experience is a one-of-a-kind. Just make sure you know what you’re ordering before you get to the counter; patience is not a virtue here. If you’re looking for an unique Southern eatery, look no further than Pitty Pat’s Porch, a Gone With The Wind- themed restaurant serving fried chicken, shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes, sweet tea, pecan pie, peach cobbler and other favorites (seriously, I’m starving now).

Working in Atlanta

As a major business hub and on its way to becoming one of the best cities for tech start-ups, Atlanta offers much in the way of a work-life balance. For the insider’s perspective on maintaining this balance, I asked a former high school classmate, John Duncan, what makes the ATL such a wonderful place.

“I like Atlanta for its relative close proximity to the ocean and mountains,” says John who has worked for more than five years as a graphic designer in the city. Also, with three major business areas, Downtown, Buckhead and Sandy Springs/Dunwoody, John explains the variety Atlanta offers. “It has all of the culture and amenities of a big city, but it has kept its neighborhoods and districts intact so you can choose a place to live depending on your personality and what you like to do.”

Hartfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, the largest airport in the world, makes traveling to and from the city convenient and easy, says John. “It has almost any direct flight you would need, and if you have to travel a lot for work, being in Atlanta makes it more time and cost conscious.”

On the negative side, traffic can be torturous in Atlanta. “Depending on where you live or whether or not you have access to MARTA, as the districts are spread out, you will be sitting in traffic,” says John.

According to the season, there are a variety of activities for weekend entertainment, according to John. Sports fans have the major league games to take in, or if you’re more of a music fan, new acts come every week to the city. John enjoys visiting the High Museum of Art for various exhibitions.

I give Atlanta a 8+. What is your favorite city in the South?

-Monica

Getting spooky in Shanghai: Chinese ghost stories

Chris and I did water calligraphy at the end of our ghost tour. Our guides taught us how to draw scary words, like this symbol for ghost.

“You can feel the temperature in this area of the park drop right here,” said Daniel Newman, managing director of Newman Tours, as he circled his largest tour group to date under the shadow of a former state-run hotel. “This is the creepiest stop on the tour for me,” he continues. “Three times I’ve had people on this tour capture an image of the ghost girl on their cameras.”

Halloween in China

Halloween is my absolute favorite holiday, and I love a good and spooky (not gory) fright. With a rich history in merciless rulers, unscrupulous gangsters and supernatural worship, China makes an impressive backdrop for the holiday. Though not celebrated among ethnic Chinese in the typical fashion, Halloween is a time to remember past loved ones. Families invite those gone before to dinner where a place of honor with food and drink are set out on the table for the departed family member. The family member is then implored to put in a good word with the gods for those still living. In August, the ghost festival is dedicated to the remembrance and honor of departed loved ones. Unlike last year’s Halloween in São Paulo, Halloween in Shanghai is a big deal. Though it’s not traditionally recognized, as one Shanghai businessman put it, “in Shanghai, they don’t need an excuse to party. If anyone in the world is celebrating something, they join in here. This week it’s Halloween; next week it will be something else.” We’ve seen ads for zombie pub crawls, a Disney villain costume party, a Disney trashed-out princess costume party, and all sorts of other Halloween activities. Just one more reason to love this crazy international city.

Chinese ghost stories

What better way to celebrate Halloween than with a ghost tour of our new city? I’ve dragged Chris on ghost tours in Boston, Baltimore, New Orleans, Savannah, Prague, Edinburgh and more. Always the believer v. skeptic couple of the group, I’m determined to make a believer out of him yet. Shanghai was our first ghost tour in Asia, and it did not disappoint. Newman and Jack Daliday, both from London but with extensive studies in China, awed the group with background information on sites around the city while using props and iPad imagery to bring the stories to life. We especially liked Newman’s vocal impersonations as that certainly kept us guessing. As an added bonus, we also learned some Chinese calligraphy. At the end of the tour, Newman and Daliday used water brushes to teach the group the Chinese characters for scary words like kill, ghost and usurper, reportedly written by a literary figure in the 1400s in his own blood as he died from an execution of being chopped in two. In celebration of my favorite holiday, and to wish all our worktrotters a Happy Halloween, here are my top-pick Chinese ghost stories from Newman Tours’ Shanghai Ghost Tour.

1. The clumsy waitress A decrepit and charred building stands tall and foreboding overlooking a park. Newman warns us before he begins the story that this ghost has been seen on the tour before. He points up to the sole window visible through the trees. “There, that’s where she only appears through the lens of a camera,” he explains. The ghost girl with the burned skin has reportedly been captured in photos staring out of the room she burned to death in. In the 1980s, the building was a grand state-run hotel. One day during the lunch service at the hotel’s restaurant, a young girl waiting tables trips and spills wine on a customer. Enraged by her clumsiness, the manager grabs her by the ear and hauls her upstairs to the second floor. As punishment, he locks her in the staff room, intending to return later to let her out. A fire breaks out a few hour later, though, and in the chaos of getting out of the building, the waitress is forgotten until it’s too late. Today, the building is a shell of its former self, and the lone window, now surrounded by charred burn marks, opens onto a park where dance groups practice in the evening. As you walk along the path through the park, you can feel a distinguishable drop in temperature as you pass beneath the window. Photos of the windows have revealed a shadowy figure of a woman with a burned face. Restoration workers refuse to enter the room. Is the clumsy waitress still waiting to be let out?

2. A watery family grave A seemingly peaceful pond provides a nice scene for walkers and joggers in Jing’an Park. Not so, according to Newman, as those very walkers and joggers could be pulled in to a watery death at any moment. He points to a nearby clutch of reeds. “This is a good spot for a shui gui to grab you and pull you under,” he explains. A shui gui is a ghost that lives in the body of water he drowned in, and the only way he can pass on is to replace his soul with another’s in the water. There once was a nasty abbot of Jing’an Temple that dealt in illegal money laundering and especially liked the ladies. One day he sees the most beautiful young girl, and he insists on having her. When she rebukes his flattery and bribes, he threatens to commit zhū lián jiǔ zú, an ancient form of punishment that kills nine generations of a person’s family before the person is killed. When the young girl still refuses his advances, he rounds up every living member of her family he can find and brings them to the pond. To the horror of the girl, he drowns them all in front of her before she is also murdered. It is believed in Chinese culture that ghosts can only walk in straight lines. To reduce the ability of the shui gui to pull an unsuspecting passerby into the water, today a zigzag boardwalk runs across the surface of the pond. Potted plants underneath the surface sprout tall bamboo trees. As bodies don’t stay underwater for long, it is believed the young girl’s family members were cut into pieces and placed in those very pots. Are their spirits in the trees now growing from those pots? Or are they beneath the surface waiting to snatch their replacements?

3. The taxi dancer The art deco sign for The Paramount lights up the street as the landmark creates an impressive photo op. I’m watching Chris take the photo as I see Daliday slip a gun ever so quickly out of his pocket. “He sneaked into her room, and bang bang shot her right in the chest,” he exclaims as he startles the German man he pulled the trigger of the cap gun on. Workers have reported music playing long after closing time. In the 1930s, The Paramount was the club of choice for the shakers of Shanghai and the gangsters that ran the city. Known for good liquor, the taxi dancers were what really brought the gentlemen in. Like a taxi cab, when a cool cat wanted to dance with one of the ladies, she flipped a meteor on and you danced (or maybe even something a little more) for a by-minute rate. During this era, due to the national unrest between the two nations and invasion of China, Japanese officials were powerful but not well liked by the locals. A Japanese soldier spotted a particularly attractive taxi dancer one night at The Paramount. She refused to dance with anyone of Japanese origin, no matter the rate. After becoming hostile, the soldier was escorted out of the club. Still feeling offended and with liquid courage running through his veins, the soldier decided he would sneak back into The Paramount that night to exact his revenge. As the taxi dancer slept in her quarters, the soldier put a pistol to her chest and fired. As the tables have turned and The Paramount is now a discrete gigolo club for wealthy women, it is reported that the taxi dancer still performs nightly. After closing hours, phantom music has been reported throughout the building and a silhouette of a woman can be seen gliding across the dance floor in the upper levels. Is the taxi dancer waiting for her last dance or is some rich lady getting special after-hours treatment? Happy Halloween! Have some ghost stories of your own? Share them in the comments. -Monica Disclosure: We highly recommend Newman Tours for its Shanghai Ghost Tour, and we even have plans to take the company’s other ghost tour in Beijing during our next visit. We were provided with one free admission to the Shanghai Ghost Tour for mentioning Newman Tours in this blog post. Prices for the company’s many tours are available at its website at www.newmantours.com, and there are discounted rates for students and children.