Known as the Music City, Nashville has much to offer on and off the music scene.
It’s the country music capitol of the world, and while Chris would prefer to hear the sounds of Beale Street a bit to the west, Nashville, Tenn., certainly has its charm. You may grow tired of country music after a few days, but it is an experience that everyone should have.
Public transportation isn’t so easily navigable and many attractions are far from downtown, so a car or tour bus is recommended.
Our Favorite Places
Not a line dancer? No worries! Just watch the show from above at the Wildhorse Saloon.
Wildhorse Saloon
Don’t leave Nashville without a trip to the Wildhorse Saloon. Don’t worry if line dancing and country aren’t your thing; a large balcony above looks down on the stage and dance floor. From here, you can at least witness the Nashville style of club life.
Don’t leave Nashville without checking out some of the vintage record shops, like Ernest Tubb, on Broadway.
Ernest Tubb Record Shop
For the day-time music scene, not far away is the world famous Ernest Tubb Record Shop surrounded by local bars with recent Nashville migrants trying to burst onto the scene, playing live music and hawking CDs, often referred to as “the best souvenirs in Nashville.”
Country music enthusiasts will also flock to the Grand Ole Opry and its former home, the Ryman Auditorium, to see and hear the astounding acoustics where decades of stars have performed.
For those tired of the country music, you can find good acts in almost every genre launching themselves from the Nashville area. Nashville is home to non-country acts Young Buck, Kings of Leon and Ben Folds. In fact, Nashville’s marketing over the past several years has simply referred to it as“Music City,” and dropped the country references.
Vanderbilt University
With arguably the SEC’s most academically-oriented school, Vanderbilt University attracts an intellectual crowd. The sports program is actually run by the intramural department and the athletic director wears many hats.
The Belmont Mansion offers a beautiful exterior and interior example of Southern decor.
The Hermitage
Although much more cruel in nature than Thomas Jefferson, Andrew Jackson was probably his closest comparison as a U.S. president by virtue of home and inventions. His home, The Hermitage, is Tennessee’s Monticello, 10 miles from downtown. We also enjoyed touring the Belmont Mansion, the largest house museum in the state, built by Adelicia Hayes Franklin Acklen Cheatham with her second husband after inheriting a huge fortune upon the death of her first.
Parthenon
Evoking images of Greece, The Parthenon is modeled after the original in Athens. It serves as the city art museum, and makes a wonderful backdrop for photos.
A city within a city, the Gaylord Opryland offers plenty of activities within its walls.
Gaylord Opryland
If you want to splurge on your lodging, stay at the Gaylord Opryland. It’s like a city in itself under one roof. You can kayak down creeks, eat in top restaurants, and hang out listening to live music late into the night with dozens of choices. Even if you don’t stay there, be sure to visit as you head to the Grand Ole Opry. If you do stay there, just don’t get so caught up in this “town” that you forget about the city nearby.
Eats
It would seem most of our favorite local eating spots have regrettably closed in Nashville. The Nashville restaurant scene is always changing. If you’re a tourist, you’ll certainly find yourself downtown one night for a meal on the picturesque Cumberland River front with the typical lineup of Hard Rock Café, Joe’s Crab Shack and the Titan fans’ hangout, Eddie George Sports Grille.
For some of the best country cooking in Tennessee, check out the Loveless Cafe outside of Nashville.
For a tourist in Nashville, the mecca of pancake houses awaits. The Pancake Pantry has every combination of fruit, sweet or plain pancakes. The line may wrap around the block when you first arrive, but it moves much more quickly than other prime tourist restaurant queues you may have visited.
If you have a car (and like we said, you need one), spend an evening at the Loveless Café for some good country cooking and biscuits. It’s a bit of a drive but definitely worth it. If a member of your party is on a gluten-free diet, visit the Germantown Café for a good lunch in an awesome neighborhood.
Working in Nashville
For an insider’s perspective, we turn to Amy and Blake NeeSmith. Due to Blake’s music career, they have been traveling between the Music City and their hometown in Georgia for the past four years, moving permanently to Nashville this past summer. Blake, the lead singer for the Christian band Finding Favor that goes on tour this summer, finds the city particularly accommodating at it “thrives on good music and great talent.” Amy, an antiques dealer and soon-to-be owner and operator of Tin Roof Antiques in Franklin, Tenn., finds the city is also conducive to her business with its up-and-coming antique scene, which she contributes to the rich history of the area and its extensive entrepreneur population.
Nashville is a 6 on our list. What would you give it?
Both agree Nashville is unique for its people. Most are from somewhere else, explains Blake, looking for friends who are also doing what they love. “People here are more open to enjoy the little things and explore the city and what it has to offer,” says Amy.
Finding a weekend activity is easy enough, and the couple especially recommends the abundance of live music downtown with a dinner at Whiskey Kitchen. When he’s not playing a show, Blake recommends taking a picnic out to Arrington Vineyards for a weekend escape. Amy likes to browse the flea markets or attend one of the many festivals. “Overall it’s a great city to live in,” says Amy. “I love it and think that anyone who visits would be able to find something to absolutely love about the city!”
We give Nashville a 6 on our favorite places to be. What is your favorite type of music and what city do you think best represents it?
Of course, chocolate is everywhere in Switzerland and a large variety of it can be found in any grocery store. These Easter bunnies and other sweet treats were on main display at all the local stores the weeks leading up to Easter.
One of the adventures of living abroad is re-learning how to do the most mundane daily activities, like grocery shopping. We went from the laid-back stroll of buying fruits and vegetables in the supermarkets and feiras of Brazil to the efficient speed race of grocery shopping in Switzerland.
Down a country road
Due to a typo in some official mailing paperwork, we came to meet our neighbors across the street. A Swiss man who lived in the U.S. for 10 years and his Austrian wife who has lived in Switzerland for 30+ years were not the typical couple we had come to expect. There is a saying in Switzerland that once you make a Swiss friend, you’ve made a friend for life. Typically, Swiss people are hard to get to know, sometimes taking years for an invite into their homes. However, once a Swiss person has befriended you, it sticks. So, we were a bit surprised when we knocked on their door one evening the second week we were here to explain how our mail might be delivered to their home by mistake and were invited in for beer and tea.
Produce is assigned a number, and you must weigh it on the scale to print out a barcode for checkout. We found this out the hard way after we took about six different items up to a busy cashier without any barcodes!
Since then, I have gone grocery shopping each week with Hilda, the wife. She has been a godsend for us. As we live quite far out in the country here without a car, getting to the grocery store can be a challenge. Our nearest grocery store is about a quarter of a mile walk past a cow farm. It’s quite a change from our days in São Paulo.
Hilda and I go in her car two towns over to a few different grocery stores. First, there is Spar, which is comparable in size and selection to a Food Lion (I can’t compare anything in Switzerland to price, though, since everything is much more expensive here, but that’s for another blog post). Then there is Migros, which is something like a Wal-Mart with more than just food but not a superstore. Next is Coop, more high-end like a Publix, and Coop City, comparable to Wal-Mart Super Centers, can be found in bigger towns. There is one discount grocery store chain, Aldi, which can also be found throughout the U.S. Finally, there are smaller convenience stores, like Volg, where Chris picks up milk and some other smaller daily items on his walk home from work. There are also lots of individual shops, like bakeries, butcheries and pharmacies.
On a mission
Unlike Brazil, grocery shopping (and pretty much everything else) in Switzerland is a lesson in efficiency. From the way the store is stocked to how people go about their shopping trip to the checkout, everything is organized to get you in and out quickly.
Soups in Switzerland come mainly in packet form with few options in can, and no Campbell’s in sight.
Shoppers aren’t browsing; they are grabbing and going. I think I’m the only one who doubles back to areas to check prices. I look for “action” items as these are how products are marked for “sell” because they are near expiration.
Checkout is quick, and you’re expected to bag your groceries and pay all at the same time. There is even a divider at the end to separate groceries of shoppers in the process of checking out. If it weren’t for Hilda helping me, I’m pretty sure I would get a lot more glares from people in line behind me. You also bring your own bags as plastic/paper bags are either not available or only available for cost.
Like the U.S.
For the most part, it seems Switzerland has many of the same foods as the U.S. I’ve adopted new eating habits here, so I haven’t looked for the same products as I did in Brazil.
To obtain a shopping cart, you have to put in 2 francs or a grocery store coin to release it from the other carts. When you return it, you get your coin back.
Fresh fruits and vegetables can be found in the grocery store, but the selection isn’t as wide. It does seem every imaginable meat can be found here, though. Cheddar cheese is still hard to find, but we’ve been experimenting with Swiss cheese and a wide variety that is available here. Nutella is still the No. 1 choice for a sandwich spread, but you can find peanut butter in the regular grocery stores (there are no Wal-Marts or Sam’s Clubs here). Mayonnaise and mustard come in tubes like toothpaste instead of bottles along with tuna salad. Fresh bread is available almost anywhere, including convenience stores. Soups come more in packets to be made instead of already-made in cans.
A variety of fresh bread is available at all grocery and convenience stores. You bag your own selection and take to checkout.
Swiss food is of a heavier diet, so preservatives are more like the U.S. instead of Brazil. Most food will keep here, and Switzerland is freezing produce for later use more and more. A friend of mine lived here about six years ago, and she told me then she could never find food that was out of season. Now, though, it seems you find more produce in the frozen aisle.
When it comes to grocery shopping, are you more Brazilian like and stroll through the store looking at all the items? Or are you more Swiss like, focused to get in and get out?
We saw this sign in front of a house in the Ninth Ward, the worst-hit area in Hurricane Katrina. It originally read “I AM COMING HOME!” When the owner returned, the word “coming” was blanked out. This sign speaks to the soul of the city and its people.
Want to know our favorite city? Of all time? It’s the Crescent City, the Big Easy, New Orleans.
We fell head-over-heels in love when we spent New Year’s there, ringing in 2009 listening to one of our favorite bands, native sons Better Than Ezra at the House of Blues. From the music to the architecture to the food to the people, there is just a culture and vibe there that can’t be found or topped anywhere else in the world. Somehow, someway we plan to make a home here one day.
Part of the reason we fell in love with this City Care Forgot is the resiliency of its people. After Hurricane Katrina devastated the area in 2005, the city struggled to return to its former glory. Chris was fortunate enough to see pre-Katrina New Orleans in 2002 and comprehend the overall destruction through comparison. We saw major improvements between 2009 and 2012 when we returned for Mardi Gras. The city and its people never gave up on rebuilding, and little by little it has been returning and becoming better than ever.
Our Favorite Places
Jackson Square is a New Orlean’s icon. Check out the art vendors and street musicians around the square during the day and the shadows of the Andrew Jackson and Jesus Christ statues on St. Louis Cathedral at night.
Jackson Square
Beautiful in its own right, we love to walk around the Square and admire the many paintings on display by art vendors. The walls of our living room in Virginia were decorated with the scenes of jazz musicians and French Quarter homes. At night, the sculpture of Andrew Jackson on horseback and the St. Louis Cathedral cast remarkable shadows over the square.
The head of a statue in St. Louis Cemetery was destroyed during the filming of the 1970s cult film Easy Rider. Due to the production’s destructive behavior, no movies are allowed to be filmed in any New Orleans cemeteries.
St. Louis Cemetery Anywhere we visit, we enjoy walking through the cemeteries. The resting places for the departed can serve as art museums all on their own with magnificent sculptures and beautiful inscriptions. Some of the stateliest of these graves can be found in all three of the St. Louis cemeteries of New Orleans. Home to massive angles and other spiritual works, you’ll find the grave of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau in St. Louis Cemetery 1 marked with three Xs and statues desecrated by the stars of Easy Rider. Since the cemeteries can be sketchy, especially at night, we recommend taking guided tours.
Marie Laveau House of Voodoo
You won’t find Bourbon Street on our list of favorite places in New Orleans, but everyone should experience walking through the craziness at least once, as that will probably be all it takes. It’s the best way to get to the end where you’ll find a unique store that sells all the charms you need to conduct any voodoo ritual. Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo is full of interesting artwork and you can receive palm and tarot card readings here by an unique staff of New Orleans locals.
The Krewe of Endymion, the largest of the Mardi Gras krewes, is known for its celebrity grand marshals and elaborate floats.
Mardi Gras World
Mardi Gras is one of the most extraordinary events we’ve ever witnessed. The atmosphere in New Orleans is even more extreme during this time, and it’s an experience you’ll cherish. It’s not just about co-eds flashing for beads and drunks acting like fools (but if that’s your thing, you’ll find more than enough on Bourbon Street), but there is a sense of community and family pride. The floats that carry the krewes down Canal Street are masterpieces; the rich traditions behind these parade clubs are masterful; and the regalia of the Mardi Gras Indians are stunning.
If you can’t make it to the city in February for the festivities, check out Mardi Gras World across the Mississippi River in Old Algeirs. Here you can take a tour and see how the floats are made, learn about the history of Mardi Gras, and try a piece of King Cake.
At the Backstreet Cultural Museum, you’ll find displays of authentic Mardi Gras Indian regalia and jazz funeral relics.
Backstreet Cultural Museum
Found in a small house on Henriette Delille Street, this museum is the life work of Sylvester Francis, starting with photos of Indians as the marched in the streets of the Tremé neighborhood. Francis is a grand storyteller, explaining the duties of a Wild Man and how the Chief personally works on his own suit for the entire year before Mardi Gras. One of the most intriguing activities we’ve ever watched, an Indian club practice is mesmerizing with the chants and drums.
New Orleans, like New York City, is a place we could write for days-on-end about. There is a plethora of sights to see and activities to enjoy no matter your taste.
Eats
Growing up, I have fond memories of my granddaddy and me watching Justin Wilson’s cooking show as he prepared everything from gumbo to jambalaya to alligator stew. Wilson was my first view of New Orleans cuisine and my cousin, Janet, a Louisiana native, gave me my first tastes of gumbo and jambalaya. I was hooked.
Powder-sugar-covered fried pastries, one must try beignets at Cafe Du Monde for a sweet treat.
When I first visited the beautiful city, I couldn’t seem to get enough of its famous foods, especially the red beans and rice. So, first time to ever happen on our blog, but we don’t have any restaurant suggestions for New Orleans (other than you must at least once try the world-famous beignets and coffee at Café Du Monde in the French Quarter). This is because we try new restaurants, from upscale to hole-in-wall type places, every time we’re in town. There are so many great places to go. We usually get muffalettas somewhere on Decatur Street; red beans and rice can be found at quick places off Canal Street; and we had a delicious gumbo at a more upscale restaurant at the entrance of Bourbon Street.
Have a restaurant recommendation for New Orleans? Let us know, and we’ll try it out during our next visit.
Working in New Orleans
Jobs have been coming back steadily in the Crescent City since the recovery from Hurricane Katrina. For Bullet Miller, a waitress working six days a week in a Midcity restaurant, the tourism trade is alive and thriving in New Orleans. She says the ease of finding work in the city’s service industry is the best thing about working in the Big Easy. She adds her customers are friendly, even more so than other Southern locations she’s been in, and she’s making good wages.
New Orleans is a 10+ on our list. What would you give it?
Bullet enjoys the city for its laid-back nature. “One of the most fun things about NOLA is that you can legally drink alcohol out on the street. You can go into a bar and order your drink to go and just stroll around with it. I love that simple freedom of living here.”
Her best recommendation for visiting the city is the New Orleans Museum of Art in City Park. Admission is free Wednesdays, and the portrait of Marie Antoinette is amazing. “I always get so inspired and find something new.”
We give New Orleans a 10+ on our favorite places to be. What is your favorite city of all time?
I love when we hear from our worktrotters (that’s you, our fans)! I recently received a question from one who is planning an upcoming trip to Copenhagen. Chris and I haven’t made it there, yet, but we hear it’s a remarkable place to visit.
This worktrotter is new to travel and needed some tips on packing. Her question gave me the great idea for this post. So, without further ado, here are my top tips for travel packing.
I don’t travel without it! This is my jump drive necklace with all my important documents. I painted the red cross, the international symbol for medical information, on it with nail polish.
1) Take the important stuff
When traveling abroad, be sure to have all your documentation. We carry our passports, original birth certificates and wedding certificate, important medical records, health insurance cards, credit card and bank contact information, and international driver’s licenses in plastic protectors. It’s also a smart idea to make copies of these documents and load them to a jump drive that you can carry on your person. I have one on a necklace I wear. You can paint a red cross on the jump drive for the international symbol of medical information.
2) Airlines and baggage don’t play nice together
As most U.S. airlines only allow one bag under 50 pounds to be checked free for a Transatlantic flight, we try to pack as tight as possible. Rolling your clothes instead of folding them will save space. Use your shoes to store small items, like jewelry and hair clips. Also, save room in your carry-on in case you need to switch some items out. Be sure, though, your carry-on items meet TSA rules for liquids and possible hazardous materials.
My typical luggage for shorter trips in a black color code. Notice my flats I can interchange with day or night outfits.
3) Mix and match clothes
There is no need to pack an outfit for each day. Instead, pack a certain amount of shirts and pants that can be worn interchangeably to last the length of your trip. You also don’t need to take up valuable space with too many shoes. I choose a color code for the trip (brown or black), and I take two maybe three pairs of shoes at the most. This usually includes a pair of tennis shoes I can do my walking around in and a pair that can be worn with most anything else, including nicer outfits for evenings out.
4) Take care of yourself
Take any medications you will need. I also like to pack medicine for upset stomachs, as you don’t know how the new food will affect you. If you can also get a subscription for Cipro or another low-dose antibiotic from your doctor, this is good to have on hand in case of emergencies.
5) Plan ahead
Always leave space for items you will bring back as you will certainly return with more than you departed. In his suitcase, Chris likes to pack an extra duffel bag as a carry-on to use on the way back. If you expect to buy souvenirs, bring less with you.
“If you go to Atlanta, the first question people ask you is, ‘What’s your business?’ In Macon they ask, ‘Where do you go to church?’ In Augusta they ask your grandmother’s maiden name. But in Savannah the first question people ask you is ‘What would you like to drink?’”
–Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt
Our favorite city in Georgia, Savannah is the epitome of Southern charm and eccentricism. Saved from destruction during the Civil War by Union Gen. William Sherman as a Christmas gift to President Abraham Lincoln, the city is a preserved jewel with a modern vibe all its own.
Our Favorite Places
River Street
Any trip to Savannah without a visit to River Street is just wrong.
A view of River Street and the Talmadge Memorial Bridge in the background from the balcony of our room at the Eliza Thompson House Inn.
Lined with boutiques, art galleries and eateries, this historic cobblestone street is busy day and night. During the day, you’ll find tourists buying souvenirs, collectors searching through antiques and art, and couples strolling hand-in-hand to the sound of the many street musicians. With its spectacular views of the Savannah River and the Talmadge Memorial Bridge, photo opportunities abound here. At night, River Street becomes one of the most active nightlife scenes in the country. Known especially for its St. Patrick’s Day party, the second largest in the nation, River Street can be quite the wild place. One of our favorite bars in town can be found nearby; Savannah Smiles is a dueling piano bar where anything goes.
Savannah City Market
A mixed-development, you’ll find restaurants, shops, art galleries and bars here. More of the locals tend to frequent this area, and there’s always special events going on.
In the downtown area, the city is structured in squares with parks inside and historic homes on the edges. A wonderful way to spend a sunny afternoon is walking through these city squares, admiring the many fountains and statues of Civil War veterans. The infamous Johnny Mercer House or Mercer Williams House, renowned in the novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, can be found on the Monterey Square. The Juliette Gordon Low House and Historic District, the founder of the Girl Scouts, is on Lafayette Square.
Forsyth Park
A beautiful park in the historic district, Forsyth Park is the site of many wedding photos and movie sets. The iconic fountain found in the center of the park makes a magnificent backdrop. Walking trails, playgrounds and playing fields make this a perfect place for family gatherings.
We bought our house in Virginia based on its Savannah look, complete with a Bird Girl statue out front.
Bonaventure Cemetery
Made famous by the cover of the novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, this historic cemetery sits among oaks with Spanish moss. However, the Bird Girl statue that used to belong here can now be found at the Telfair Museum of Art. The resting place of famous Georgians, such as the musician Johnny Mercer and first governor Edward Telfair, the cemetery is a quiet place to admire nature.
Eats
Part of immersing yourself in the unique culture of Savannah is enjoying its distinctly Southern cuisine. Being a port city, you can find great seafood throughout the city. Especially unique is The Pirates’ House where after dinner you can explore underground tunnels that pirates long ago used to bring their booty into the city. Though Chris finds her a bit put on, we would be amiss if we didn’t mention Paula Deen’s Lady and Sons Restaurant, where you can try anything and everything she, Jamie and Bobby make on their shows. You may want to schedule something else for a couple of hours, leave your name on this list, and then return as the wait will be hours, not minutes. If your party is small (one or two) always ask if they have a seat at the bar and you may be able to skip this long wait entirely.We hope you like butter as you will taste plenty of it in every dish. For our favorite sweets, check out River Street Sweets for freshly-made pralines.
Working in Savannah
Savannah offers many opportunities in industry and business. For an insider’s look, we turned to Fawn Barnard Smith who has been working as a certified critical care registered nurse at St. Joseph’s Hospital for the past four years where she specializes in the care of patients suffering with heart-related problems and recovering from surgeries. After working in the capital of Atlanta for a few years, she found the transition to a slower pace quite enjoyable. “The people are kind and the area has that small-town feel.”
Savannah is a 9 on our list. What would you give it?
Fawn enjoys Savannah for its many activities to choose from to relax after a long work week. “The options are endless: a day at the beach; brunch overlooking the river; shopping at a cute specialty shop; or a quiet afternoon with a book in one of the beautiful squares downtown. Savannah is the best place to live because there is something for everyone!”
Her best recommendation for visiting the city is a trolley tour where you’ll learn a wealth of history and experience the beauty of downtown.
We give Savannah a 9 on our favorite places to be. What is your favorite city in Georgia?
Petting a ferret with my favorite girl at a horse show in Augusta. She loves her animals!
With all the amazing experiences travel offers, there are things that can make traveling less than stellar – the paperwork you have to secure before you start your trip; getting used to strange and uncomfortable nuances in a new culture; figuring out public transportation schedules; encounters with less-than-savory places and individuals; and the list can go on. We try to keep a positive attitude throughout the valleys of traveling, but one particular hardship always gets me. Homesickness.
Christopher usually arrives at our new home a few weeks before me due to school and other commitments. This means I usually have some time to spend with my family before heading out. I get to play with my niece; take my nephews to the movies; get manis/pedis with my sister; talk to my brother-n-law about running a business; learn a new recipe with my stepmother; and argue about politics with my dad. I also get to spend some one-on-one time with my in-laws.
My beautiful sister and I after a day of girl treatments for a friend’s wedding.
By the time I depart for the airport, I’ve always decided this is it, this is the last trip. I’m going to miss my family too much, and I’m moving home as soon as possible.
Goodbyes feel like someone has reached down my throat and ripped my heart out. Then my dad always gives me the kick in the rear I need and reminds me what an amazing opportunity we’re living, and off I go through security. He’s, of course, always right, but it doesn’t make the tears stop flowing as TSA agents just shake their heads at me.
For me, homesickness is the worst part of traveling and living abroad. Even though the countries we’re living in are wonderful all on their own, I always miss the United States. After the first few nights of crying for home, you find ways to cope.
I don’t think I would have survived Brazil or my first few weeks in Switzerland without being able to see and talk with my family almost daily through teleconference. All social media platforms have been extremely helpful in keeping up with friends, family and news back home. I often wonder how my mother coped with living in Germany for four years in the 1980s only being able to call home once a week and sending letters through snail mail.
2. Join expatriate groups
Making friends can be difficult in a new place. As expatriates, you already have something in common, and these groups hold weekly meetups and other activities to help you make the most of your new home. A few we’ve joined and have found helpful are InterNations, International Newcomers Club in São Paulo and Couchsurfing.
My super amazing Zumba instructor, Stephanie Cirihal, in São Paulo. I met many new friends joining her class and got to do something I love in the process.
3. Get busy
Whenever we get to our new home, one of the first things I do is look up local Zumba classes. I really enjoy this dance exercise class, and it helps keep my mind off what I’m missing. Find an activity (preferably outside of the house) in your new place you enjoy. Get out and do it!
4. Find some perspective
When I’m feeling at my lowest, I consistently remind myself of what an awesome experience this is to have. I think about all the great memories we’re creating and the stories we will have to tell family and friends back home.
5. Share your new home
Writing this blog helps us let everyone know what we’re up to, what we’re seeing, and how we feel about the whole experience. By writing short stories, making photo montages, or whatever your creative outlet is, the more you share with others, the more you find to love about your new little piece of Earth.
What do you miss most about home when you’re traveling?
A view of the Jacksonville skyline through Friendship Fountain.
This WorkLife Travel Destination is focused on a Florida city that doesn’t always make the headlines as a tourist’s paradise but holds plenty of activities. Jacksonville is the largest city in area in the United States, and, yet, its public transportation is extremely limited so make sure you bring a car or your trip will likely be a bore.
Our Favorite Places
Jacksonville Zoo
The zoo boasts an excellent collection of jaguars, brought to Jacksonville as a reminder of the NFL team’s mascot and helping to rank the zoo as one of the top ten in the country. The jaguars at the zoo are generally more impressive than the football team, and Jacksonville has the least exciting NFL stadium that we’ve ever entered for a game. This is due in part to many of the fans are generally deployed with the Navy and games are routinely blacked out on local television for not selling out. Overall, though, there are more Tim Tebow fans in Jacksonville than Jaguars fans.
So now that we have established that Jacksonville is not a rabid sports town for the out-of-towner to witness, unless, of course, you’re there for the annual collision of the Georgia Bulldogs and Florida Gators in what’s known as the World’s Largest Outdoor Cocktail Party , what exactly is there to do here?
St. Augustine
On the south side of the Jacksonville metro area is a very popular vacation retreat, St. Augustine, bringing in flocks of tourists. St. Augustine is filled with Spanish colonial buildings and historic homes centered on St. George Street. Debated to be the oldest city in the U.S., there is a certain charm here that allows you to slip away from the hustle and bustle of daily life.
Dolphins swim in the Intercoastal Waterway of Jacksonville. Photo courtesy of Andy Rodgers.
Jacksonville Beach
As you drive into Jacksonville from the south, you begin to approach a wide span of beaches collectively known as Jacksonville Beach. Here, you can spend an afternoon on the beach or an evening gazing at the sunset from a pier. After dark, the music pours from Freebird Live and other clubs. The Atlantic Beach portion is most popular/crowded and offers free parking if you arrive early enough to find it.
The Landing
In the center of Jacksonville is an area known as The Landing on the downtown riverfront. Free concerts and other events are held here where locals work and dine. Here, all of Jacksonville converges in a collage of working, shopping and partying.
San Marcos Historic District
Another popular district with more of a Bohemian feel, San Marcos Historic District has local shops, restaurants and historic homes. Surrounding the Three Lions statue are spectacular views of the St. Johns River that runs through the city.
Before departing Jacksonville, you should also take a cruise down Ponte Vedra Boulevard and see how Jacksonville’s wealthiest live on this famous street lined with oceanfront mansions.
Eats
There is quite a selection of restaurants to choose from, and seafood places are plentiful, like all of Florida. There is a great chain restaurant, Pollo Tropical, that serves closely authentic Jamaican food. Other favorites include The Pier (Mexican on the ocean), Al’s Pizza, Gumbo Ya Ya’s (New Orleans cuisine) and Nipper’s.
Also, you should purchase bottled water. Jacksonville has some of the worst tasting tap water that we’ve ever tried. On the other hand, you can rest assured if you are disgusted by the taste that it’s not as bad as some recent tourists discovered in Los Angeles.
Working in Jacksonville
We asked Chris’ brother, Andy, a civil engineer in Jacksonville for the past nine years, about living in the city. He says that he chooses Jacksonville because it “has all of the necessities (shopping, restaurants, activities, etc.) that other large cities provide, but without the traffic delays typically seen in other cities.”
As for a typical workday, he says it “involves commuting to work in a car (local transit is typically reserved for people who cannot afford a car), often 25+ miles due to Jacksonville’s status as the largest city in the U.S. in area. The commute often involves driving through multiple construction zones. Many locals refer to Jacksonville as ‘the city always under construction.’”
Andy and his wife, Maggie, take advantage of the Florida state resident discount offered by Disney World and other famous theme parks.
While commuters working in downtown Jacksonville often work late hours and skip lunch breaks throughout the week, he says they also balance it by taking advantage of the fabulous year-round weather on Fridays and starting the weekend early by dining at an outdoor eatery.
As the weekend arrives, Andy says that most take a trip to the beach or a local city/state park (Jacksonville has the most city parks per square mile of any city in the country), stroll around nearby downtown St. Augustine, and enjoy festivals throughout the year.
Another advantage for families who live and work in Jacksonville is that as in-state residents, they receive huge discounts to Orlando-area theme parks, which is less than a two-hour drive away. While families across the nation save for a big trip to Disney World for the kids maybe once every five to 10 years, it is a regular experience for Florida parents and children. Meanwhile, unlike Florida residents in the far south, Jacksonville residents can easily take I-95 N to explore the non-Florida East Coast.
We give Jacksonville a 5 on our list of favorite places to be. What’s your favorite city in Florida?
For the past two weekends, Christopher and I have seen some of the ugliest and scariest masks; been confetti-bombed a dozen times; threw back shots of Schnapps as if we were in college again; given candy to kids in every imaginable costume like it was Halloween; and danced Gangnam Style in the streets.
A float during the Chur Fasnacht parade makes a jab about the recent controversy over the Swiss government buying new military jets. The sign reads “To hell with the Gripen,” which is the type of plane the Swiss are purchasing from Sweden.
Who knew, but Switzerland celebrates Carnival! Here, it’s called Fasnacht, and each town has its own celebration. The first weekend, we celebrated in Chur. Everyone here was dressed in costume for the occasion, from the young to the old. We attended the afternoon parade where local groups play in full bands and pull floats, typically with a political jab. These groups are comparable to the krewes of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras. Lots of candy, fruit and some toys are thrown to the spectators, but whereas Mardi Gras is known for beads, Fasnacht is known for confetti. It’s thrown from the floats, and some of the group members come into the crowd to pour bags of it on spectators. By the end of the parade, the street isn’t even visible for the confetti.
A parade participant at the Basil Fasnacht Parade prepares to confetti bomb a member of the crowd.
We attended our second Fasnacht celebration in Basel, which has the only Protestant Carnival in the world. Costumes were mainly worn by the children here, but it wasn’t any less of a party atmosphere. Confetti continued to be abundant and it seemed more parade participants offered shots or beer to spectators. The main difference between Chur and Basel seemed to be the parade participant’s costumes. Whereas in Chur most groups had elaborate face paintings, Basel members had intricate masks.
Each town sells its own Fasnacht pin with proceeds going to the groups to buy the masks, costumes, musical equipment, and other festival-related costs. If you’re wearing the pin, the better your odds at getting goodies from the parade participants instead of confetti-bombed.
After the parades, the bands make their ways throughout the evening into local restaurants to play inside for diners. There are also small comedy groups that perform inside, usually taking jabs at politicians, government and other organized institutions.
A firefighter carries a burning torch during the Chienbäse, a Fasnacht tradition in Liestal since the Middle Ages.
Outside of Basel in Liestal is the Chienbäse, a night parade that has been continuous since the Middle Ages. Firefighters carry large torches through the streets and push carts carrying burning fires with flames 12 feet into the air. If you can stand the smoke, it’s a sight to behold. The next morning at 4, we attended Morgenstreich, the world-famous parade of lanterns in the main city of Basel. All of the lights in town are turned out, and the groups march playing only piccolo flutes and drums. The participants carry lanterns on their heads while the floats are lighted from inside. Unlike the other parades, this one has no set route. Millions of people are just wandering among the darkened streets following the light and music.
Participants carry lanterns on their heads during the world-famous Morgenstreich in Basel where all the city lights go out for the early-morning parade.
After this early-morning parade, the Couchsurfers we stayed with prepared us a traditional Fasnacht breakfast of Mehlsuppe, a brown flour soup, and Zwiebelwähe, a cheese and onion quiche. We were told traditionally you would wash this all down with beer, but by that point, we had reached our limit.
Fasnacht is the one time of year that the Swiss are allowed to cut loose and enjoy themselves. All the rules the country is known so well for are thrown out the window. We had a wonderful, if not exhausting, time during Fasnacht, and we look forward to celebrating more holidays here. We’ve been told Easter is a pretty big deal, too.
A view from our balcony after a night-long snow fall.
After a month of visiting family and friends from Virginia to Florida in the U.S.; handling visa business at the consulate in Atlanta; attending the school residency week for Syracuse University in New York City; and re-packing from summer to winter clothes, we’ve both made it to Switzerland with Chris arriving about a week before me.
This trip has been the epitome of polar opposites. We’ve gone from the sunny beaches of Brazil to the snow-covered mountains of our new home outside of Zurich. When I went to apply for my immigration status in Brazil, I wore flip-flops, a pair of shorts, and a tanktop. Monday when I went to the Office of Population Control (Chris’ says it sounds like something out of George Orwell’s 1984), I wore my heavy-duty snow boots, two pairs of socks, a pair of long john pants and shirt, a sweater, jeans, two coats (one with a faux fur lining), a pair of gloves, a scarf, and a toboggan (yes, this is what I call a skull cap, tuke, winter hat, or whatever you prefer). Thank goodness for my Canadian friends who told me to dress in layers, but I was still cold!
Decked out in four layers to brave the snow!
After only being here a few days, we’ve noticed some differences other than the weather. Though the people will say guten morgen (we’re in the part of the country that speaks German), they’re not as open-armed as Brazilians or Americans, at least Americans from the south of the States. There isn’t much smiling going on in the streets here. There are a lot more people here who know English than we found in Brazil. This is a great help for a traveler who doesn’t have an affinity for languages, like me.
In the coming months, we’ll be posting about all things Swiss we experience, like grocery shopping (where mustard and mayonnaise come in tubes instead of bottles), public transportation, food, codes of conduct, and more.
Do you want to know anything about Switzerland? Let us know, and we’ll see if we can dedicate a post to it.
New York City can more appropriately be called a microcosm of the entire world than possibly any other city on Earth, and it is most representative of the melting pot that the United States was founded to be. Close to the Statue of Liberty, you can witness patriotic parades with topless protesters screaming at the soldiers and police officers who fight for her right to freedom of speech. In the vicinity, you can find a neighborhood representative of almost any ethnicity in the world. In one city, you have everything that the United States represents and everything that the world represents. It is for this reason that we love to travel to NYC at least once per year and to delve into all of its neighborhoods, not just the blocks routinely featured on television.
Manhattan
Harlem
An example of the many murals in Harlem.
Harlem sits below Columbia University and is one of the key spots in the United States, particularly in the northern states, to witness African-American history and culture. When I first visited Harlem soon after 2000, it was plagued with crime. Slower than many neighborhoods to recover from the 1980s drug-ridden NYC, I saw three obvious shoplifters in the first small store that I entered. Most brownstones were boarded up after being gutted by drug addicts on the inside. Pieces of the housing including copper pipes were traded for a bit of money to fund their addiction. However, Harlem’s fortunes changed around the time President Clinton decided to place his post-presidential office there.
A visit to Harlem should definitely include a Sunday morning. The area’s 400 Christian churches and show choirs are legendary and known worldwide, including but not limited to the Boys Choir of Harlem. As a Caucasian, it may be assumed that you are European when you enter since most Caucasian Americans have historically ignored the area, but the church attendees will always be warm and friendly. The area also includes Mosque No. 7, where Malcolm X preached until he left the Nation of Islam after a dispute in 1964.
After visiting a church service, a soul food meal is definitely a must before exploring other sites. You may actually be invited to share dinner with churchgoers in a fellowship hall. If not, seek out one of Harlem’s excellent soul food restaurants. The most famous is Sylvia’s, a spot that actually hosts its own gospel dinner/brunch. Sylvia, who unfortunately died in 2012 after a battle with Alzheimer’s, founded the restaurant with her husband in the early 1960s after moving from South Carolina and bringing her southern recipes of fried chicken, cornbread, collard greens, macaroni & cheese and other Southern classics that are equally popular in Harlem.
The Apollo Theater has a long history, originating as a burlesque house.
The Apollo Theater, a former burlesque house, is known to many as the home of Arsenio Hall’s show throughout the early 1990s, however its history is much deeper. The Cotton Club, musical home of Duke Ellington and others, can also be visited.
Fifth Avenue
Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan is one of the most famous shopping districts in the world. Here, you will find Tiffany & Co., The Apple Store, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Trump Towers among other dealers of t-shirts potentially costing more than $500. We imagine most of our readers will want to gawk and take pictures here then head over to Chinatown for the closest replica versions.
Chinatown
Fresh meat is displayed at a butcher shop in Chinatown.
Although not as large as San Francisco’s Chinese neighborhood, you can get about as real of a taste of China here as anywhere else in the United States. Pass through the grocery stores with traditional Chinese goods or head to Canal Street, one of the few places in the United States where counterfeit goods are overlooked in an Asian-like fashion. During certain seasons of the year, you will quickly hear a vendor whisper into your ear about Rolex watches or Gucci purses. It’s generally safe to follow him through the alleys as he will simply lead you to a store with a hidden room in the back. You will soon notice hidden rooms in many of the innocent-looking stores in Chinatown. If no one takes you there, just go stand beside the obvious crack in the wall until the cashier comes and pushes you inside. Here, you will find hundreds of purses with designer labels and all prices are negotiable. These purchases are not exactly “legal” as evidenced by the black garbage bag that will be wrapped around your purchase but the NYPD has larger concerns to worry about. You may also want to visit a dim-sum for an authentic Chinese meal before departing. Chinatown is also home to Chinese bus lines that give you an adventurous cheap ride to other northeastern cities. We’ll save those stories for another time.
Little Italy
If you are not a fan of Chinese food, no worries…Little Italy is next door. Visit Little Italy for a dinner and you will not be disappointed, although you should anticipate long lines at the most popular establishments. In lower Manhattan, nestled adjacent to Chinatown, it is easily accessible from all major tourist locations. One of our places for authentic New York pizza is Lombardi’s, a coal-burning pizza establishment that was founded in 1905. While it was once a hub for organized crime and may still be,Little Italy is generally a safe neighborhood and does not possess much random crime.
Times Square
First-time visitors to New York City should always take in Times Square at night. The bright lights are amazing.
It’s always fun to take someone who has never been to the city to Times Square and watch their facial expression. The brightest place we’ve ever been, there is just an unique magic about this spot. Not only is it world famous for the New Year’s Eve ball drop, but you’ve just got so much going on in these five blocks. Check out a show on Broadway that runs right through the center of Times Square (and if you can’t get to a show, you can always enjoy dinner at Ellen’s Stardust Diner where the waitstaff of aspiring Broadway performers will serenade you throughout your meal); enjoy a gigantic slice of real New York cheesecake at Carnegie Deli; take a spin on the indoor Ferris wheel at Toys-R-Us; and be sure to take in all the street performers, like the Naked Cowboy.
Central Park
The peace and quiet inside Central Park is remarkable compared to the noise outside in the big city.
Take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the largest park in the city, and you feel as if you’ve been transported to another time and place. You no longer hear the hustle and bustle of the city once you’re inside the park, and the peace and quiet is remarkable. You’ll see lots of people jogging, walking their dogs, having picnics, and just enjoying the green space.
Brooklyn
Brighton Beach
If Russia is where you want to go exploring, then Brighton Beach is your place. This neighborhood, easily reachable by subway in Brooklyn, is a merging point for immigrants from the former Soviet Union. Liquor stores are stocked full of Russian vodka and Georgian wines. Authentic Russian food and restaurants can also easily be found. Note, prior to entering, however, that Russian culture does not generally include friendly waiters and this, too, is authentic in Brighton Beach. In fact, the one travel advisor whom we usually follow, Anthony Bourdain, led us a bit astray here. Skip the National Nightclub. It’s show is mediocre at best and the staff is not very welcoming to outsiders, especially if you’re not spending thousands on vodka tonight. We would suggest one of the smaller, family owned restaurants in the area.
A countdown clock to the next eating contests decks the side of the original Nathan’s.
Coney Island
Coney Island is a perfect destination for a summer day, with New York City’s amusement park along the coast. The original Nathan’s Hot Dog establishment is home to the annual contest every July that was dominated for years by Takeru Kobayashi until Joey Chestnut emerged on the scene. Any time of year, you can grab a hot dog and drink at the establishment known well as a namesake for the Coney Island Dog.
The Bronx
A mural outside of the old New York Yankees Stadium depicted the greats of the game.
Here, you can find Monica’s favorite and Chris’ most hated baseball team, The New York Yankees. However, love or hate the team, there is definitely an atmosphere here that is unique and legendary, and you should put aside your biases just to witness it. For the true atmosphere, don’t worry about sitting in nice seats close to home plate. Sit in the cheap seats where the diehard fans reside. We’ve done both, and we would certainly recommend the latter. Spend a little time in the Bronx as well; don’t just go directly to/from the subway train and stadium. This is true New York. Check out the bars around the stadium on game day or if the Yankees are out of town, explore a bit farther and try a true New York pizza dive.
Queens/Flushing
Here you’ll find the Mets, who also have a new stadium, as well as Arthur Ashe Stadium, home to the U.S. Open. However, “Real New York“ consists of the nearby soccer fields crowded with immigrants and surrounded by food vendors with ubiquitous NYC hot dogs as well as recipes from their native countries.
A view of the Statue of Liberty from the free ferry between Manhattan and Staten Island.
Staten Island
If you’re on a budget, take the free ferry from Battery Park in Manhatten to Staten Island for the closest view of the Statue of the Liberty without going to island.
Best full day tour
If you are only in New York City for one or two days and have not seen many of the sites, check out Jerry’s Grand Tour. Jerry Balch, a retired high school science teacher and lifelong Brooklyn resident, gives a tour via walking, subway and ferry that takes you to every major tourist site in New York City. Although the tour is slightly shorter than it once was, it will still take the entire day and go into the night. See if you can survive as many others drop off while Jerry epitomizes the New Yorker who could walk for days. Along the way, he stops and takes pictures of anyone he finds to have a unique appearance in the city. He later turns these pictures to art and must now have a vast collection; however, he says they will be discovered only as a posthumous collection of work once he is gone. The tour costs $10 and begins at 891 Amsterdam Avenue on Saturday mornings.
Working in New York City
New York City is a place in which many dream of living. While it may appear to be difficult to find a job in the city because there is such a high demand of people wanting to work there, the city contains jobs for virtually every occupation, easing the path for some whose careers may lead them to less opportunities elsewhere. As musician Christopher Bill told us, “I love the city because I’m a musician and it’s one of the only places you can make a very decent living by just playing music.” He spends his days composing or arranging music for clients if there is no event scheduled. Other days, he may be performing in pit orchestras or in front of different chamber music groups. “There’s a market for every single genre of music here,” he says.
New York City is a 10 on our list. What would you give it?
As for the weekends, Bill explains, “Weekends as a musician are some of the busiest times. It’s when everybody else wants to get out and listen to live music, so it’s when we have our best gigs (especially young musicians looking for a break.) Night life is huge, and NYC is the epitome of it.”
And when he’s not working, Bill still finds the city fascinating. “NYC is such a unique place to live. There is literally every type of person, so you’re bound to meet people who have the same views as you as well as people that will open your eyes to new things and maybe even alter your own views. ”
We give New York City a 10 on our list of favorite places to be. There is so much about this wonderful place, we could write forever on it, but what part would you most like to see in the Big Apple?
