Over-the-top action sequences, mismatched voices and melodramatic acting. That’s what I thought of Chinese cinema before I took a tour this past October of the Shanghai Film Studio in Sonjiang with the Shanghai Expatriate Association. Wondering through sets of the 1930s Nanjing Road, Old Shanghai Bridge and Suzhou Creek along with exhibits on classic movies, props and costumes, I found a new appreciation for Chinese cinema.
A photo tour of Shanghai Film Studio
Though the Studio is now more of a theme park instead of an active production studio, the old movie sets provide a wonderful backdrop for photos. Sit back and enjoy the show!
Many movie artifacts, like this sedan chair, are on display in the museum portion of the Shanghai Film Studio.Original costumes featured in films throughout the industry’s history are also on display in the museum.Aspiring actors put on kung fu skits in a “West Side Story”-esque fashion.
A set designer paints backdrops for an upcoming production.
A collage of shots from Chinese film covers the wall in the museum. Images from such hits as “Marriage of the Fairy Princess” (Tian Xian Pei, 1955) can be found in the collage.Movie sets depict architecture from Spanish to Russian throughout the theme park.A set is on display in the museum, including the antique movie camera from the studio’s hay day in the middle of the 20th Century.With the spectacular backdrop of old Nanjing Lu, a fashion shoot was in progress the day of my visit.Not sure who these guys were, but since they had an entourage following them with cameras, I assume they were some international movie stars or models on set.An active trolley is available to take visitors through the Shanghai Film Studio.A scene from the 1920s hit “Disturbance in the Alleyway” is set up in the museum. The movie depicted Yuyang alleyway off Huaihai Road in Shanghai.Among the most visited sites in the Shanghai Film Studio, this church appears in the popular Chinese TV show “Xin Shang Hai Tan.”
The Shanghai Film Studio also makes a popular destination for wedding photos among the locals.
Classic cars and European monuments are among the sites at the Shanghai Film Studio.Chinese soap opera stars film a scene near Suzhou Creek.
In one area of the Shanghai Film Studio, a World War II American town is set up, intact with pinups.I end the tour by posing in one of the classic car props. The tour of the Shanghai Film Studio is a step back in time and a welcomed escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Fortune tellers at the Temple Street Night Market in Hong Kong speak with waiting patrons. These feng shui fortune tellers use the structure of the face to learn more about your history and your future.
“You have lucky face. You be rich, after your three children. Good heart. Your husband is lucky man.” As Chris stood smirking to the side, the fortune teller at the Temple Street Night Market in Hong Kong continued to tell me how I was a woman who knew what she wanted and was very determined with my “tiger eyes.” After paying the 50 RMB (about 8 USD, which was a higher price than the other fortune tellers we stumbled upon later at about 30 RMB), we both walked away laughing in good nature.
I had just received my first fortune face reading, and the fortune teller, a middle-aged Chinese lady dressed in a traditional qipao that could bargain down a beggar, had used a form of feng shui to deliver a fortune spot on (determined) in some instances and completely off (there will be no three children) in others.
What is feng shui?
Literally translated. feng shui in English means “wind” and “water.” As all traditions in China, feng shui has a foundation in the three main religions of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. A belief system that adheres to elemental conditions affecting fate from birth, feng shui is about the energies in the universe that shape our fortunes.
Dating back to 4,000 BC, feng shui was considered a metaphysical science that aligned a human’s life with celestial bodies. Using astronomy as a guide, the Chinese structured homes and buildings based on the alignment of the stars to bring about the best use of qi, or life force, and the yin and yang, or polarity of forces. The Four Celestial Animals, or the cardinal directions provided by the star constellations, in historic times that guided feng shui were:
1. The Green Dragon of East that brought the Spring Equinox
2. The Red Phoenix of South that brought the Summer Solstice
3. The White Tiger of West that brought the Autumn Equinox
4. The Dark Turtle of North that brought the Winter Solstice
In more contemporary times, feng shui fell out of favor during the Cultural Revolution when it was classified as part of the Four Olds and banned in the mainland. Since the death of Mao Zedong, feng shui has grown once again in popularity, but it is still taboo in Chinese government to consult with feng shui experts. Today, feng shui is mainly seen as an interior decorating concept for more harmonious surroundings. This singular view, though, misses the complexities of the belief system.
What a feng shui face reading can tell you
On a particularly cool evening last fall, Chris and I attended a talk about feng shui face readings hosted by Janny Chyn of Shanghai Pathways. A feng shui master delivered a speech that was translated by Chyn on the many ideas behind what the structure of the face told about a person. Like the fortune I received, some of the beliefs were very plausible while others made little sense. In feng shui, as the environment and energies shape your fortune, the attributes of the following 10 body parts are used to predict your future.
1. Ears
The shape of the ears can tell a feng shui fortune teller how you were born. If the ear shape is that of swaddled baby, you spent most of your time in the womb upside down. If the outside of the ear is thick, you are healthy, smart and practice good nutrition.
2. Forehead
The wider the forehead, the more creative the individual. Wider foreheads allow for more energy flow.
3. Eyebrows
The thicker the eyebrows and more set together, the better the personal relationships the person enjoys. The wider apart the eyebrows, the bigger the heart of the person. Narrow eyebrows depict a picky person.
4. Eyes
Small eyes are signs of an introverted person whereas bigger eyes show more of an extrovert. When the eyes are watery or look to be laughing, this is a sign of love. Dark circles under the eyes of a woman are a sign of a female-nature disease. Eye contact in China is also important as direct eye contact leads to trust and non-direct eye contact signals a lack of honesty.
5. Cheeks
If a woman has high cheekbones, it is believed she likes to be in control. If the cheeks are discolored to a pale or darkish tint, there is a problem with the lungs and money mismanagement is common in the person.
6. Chin
The sharper the chin of an individual, the more likely he is to make bad decisions.
7. Mouth
A mouth turned more upward shows agreement where a mouth turned more downward is in disagreement. A thicker lower lip depicts a person who treasures friendships while a thin upper lip shows the person to be a good debater. A mouth not centered depicts an untrustworthy person.
8. Nose
A selfish person is said to have a long nose where a more agreeable person usually has a round nose. The bigger the nose, the more stubborn the person is believed to be.
9. Hair
Thick hair is a sign of a strong person who likes to direct. Thin-haired people tend to be more considerate. The shinier the hair, the more the person is believed to be in love. Red hair is a sign of happiness.
Most traditional Chinese gardens, like this one in Leshan, China, incorporate elements of feng shui. Here the pagoda is in directional harmony with its surroundings.
10. Face
A square face belongs to a serious person whereas a more round face thinks a lot and makes good decisions.
What does your face say about you?
According to feng shui, I’m a good person who makes good decisions and thinks a lot. What would your face structure tell a fortune teller?
A full-grown panda eats a bamboo stick at the Chengdu Panda Reserve. There are 60 different species of bamboo that pandas eat.
Oreo is a 1-year-old male panda. At this age, he’s about 27 kilos and too large to hold. For the photo, I can only sit next to the cub and awkwardly try to put my arm around him. As the last in line for the photo op, he doesn’t seem to mind if I muffle his fur while I give him an odd sort of hug. After the 20 or so people in front of me, Oreo has begun to ignore the attention, concentrating on his honey-covered bamboo stick. As the Chinese caretakers usher us all through the line, snapping the photo and urging us along, I have crossed one more item off my bucket list.
Touring the Chengdu Panda Reserve
The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding has more than 100 pandas for conservation efforts. Established in 1987, the reserve is trying to replenish pandas in their natural home.
Upon arriving at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, our tour guide snaps a photo of Chris and me posing in front of the panda-shaped entrance way. We have both paid about 60 RMB (about 10 USD) to enter the park plus another 100 RMB (about 16 USD) for an English-speaking guide.
We walk through about a half mile of natural habitat, bamboo forests, seeing roughly 40 pandas. Our guide tells us it’s good we’ve come in the early morning since the pandas will be more active at this time. As the bears are best suited for the cold, they are more active in the cool dawn hours. She warns we must move quickly before midday approaches, bringing warmer temperature that the pandas begin to conserve their energy in and fall asleep.
In all of China, there are only about 1,600 giant pandas. Due to an over-hunting of the animal in ancient times, the panda is now considered an endangered species.Collected for their unique color pattern, pandas were presented as gifts to emperors during early dynasties and other countries, such as Japan, as political offerings. The US received its first panda, Su Lin, in 1934 at the San Diego Zoo. This practice stopped in 1983, and pandas are now only given internationally on loan programs.
Panda cubs are unable to defecate or urinate without assistance until 4 months old. When not with their mothers, staff at the reserve must help them in the process.
To help conserve the country’s national animal, the CRBGPB was established in 1987. Located in the heart of Sichuan province, one of only three provinces in all of China where the panda is a natural inhabitant, Chengdu with its cris-crossing mountain ranges is in the middle of the native panda habitat and is the only location in the world that is home to wild and captive pandas.Today, the CRBGPB has more than 100 pandas.
In the first section, we see the 2-year-old pandas who have recently separated for the first time from their mothers. They are frolicking and climbing on and through the platforms provided by the reserve. As pandas are typically solitary creatures who become aggressive when trespassers come into their territories, these early friendships will not last.
Farther along, we see the full-grown pandas, 5 years old and above. These bears are more lethargic. Many are lounging while they eat bamboo sticks while others are fast asleep. As they need approximately 70 kilos of bamboo a day to stay healthy, they don’t do much more than eat, drink plenty of water to digest the fibrous plant, defecate every two hours, and sleep up to 14 hours a day. To help hold the bamboo in place and feed themselves, pandas have six digits on each paw. At each enclosure there are plaques providing the name, age, sex, family line and birth date of the bears. We see Xiao, Jingjing, Yuanrun and other traditionally-named pandas basking in the sun.
These 3-month-old panda cubs are adorable rolling over each other. These friendships won’t last, though, as pandas are typically solitary creatures.
Next up is the breeding, birthing and baby care center. With mating season in the spring, births typically take place in the fall and winter. At birth, newborns are pitiful pink whimpering things who don’t even open their eyes until about 40 days old and only weigh about 100 grams. The black and white fur starts to appear at about 2 weeks old. Though we don’t see any newborns, there are 3-months-olds that are so cute it makes me want to reach through their glass enclosure and squeeze them.
Usually only one cub is birthed to a mother at a time, but sometimes twins are born. In the wild, a mother will only pick one of the cubs to raise, leaving the other to die. At the reserve, though, many mothers encounter false pregnancies or miscarriages. When this happens, a twin cub is given to her to raise.
Red pandas resemble racoons more than their black and white cousins. They were made immensely popular by the movie Kung Fu Panda.
As we exit the center, we arrive in the exhibit of red pandas. The tour guide tells us the reserve actually brought in the red pandas only after they were made popular by the movie Kung Fu Panda. These cousins to the giant pandas, red pandas resemble racoons more than their black and white family members. They race up trees instead of the slower climbing gait of their cousins, and they eat much less than their black-and-white kin.
At the end of the tour, we take a walk through the small museum on the reserve with panda artifacts, photos, videos and lessons. Of course, the musuem exit is through a gift shop where you can purchase all sorts of panda memorabilia, such as stuffed animals, jewelery, books and post cards.
Panda photo op
For a generous “donation” of 2,000 RMB, I was able to take a photo with 1-year-old Oreo. Though a bit awkward, I crossed off a bucket list item.
After a generous “donation” of 2,000 RMB (about 325 USD), I am ushered into a small room with about 20 other people where we watch a video about the development of giant pandas. After the video, the guide gives a speech about pandas, showing us an incubator where newborns are kept, holding up a model of one.
The group is then escorted to another building where we adorn surgical frocks, shoe coverings and plastic gloves. We enter into another room of the building where Oreo sits on a bench and we line up for our three-minute photo op. As the guide ushers us through the line, two other assistants keep Oreo entertained by handing him stick after stick of bamboo dipped in honey. As the 1-year-old panda greedily snatches for another treat, members of the group sit beside Oreo as the photographer snaps the official photo and their friends click photos on their phones. If you sit too long, the guide will insist you move along.
A young guy tries to take a bamboo stick from Oreo for a photo, and the staff is quick to shout and perform the “Chinese windshield wiper” in his face. He settles back more appropriately for his photo and then is ushered out. Once we all have a chance to take our photo, we exit into another room where we remove all our surgical garb, and Oreo is led back to his mother in the nursery area.
We wait for the photos to be developed, and then we receive a gift bag. Inside, there is an official certificate thanking us for the “donation,” a panda pin and scarf, and our photo in a glass frame. Though I look a bit funny in the picture, I can now say I’ve met and touched a live panda.
A visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding is highly recommended for any visit to China. The photo op is optional.
Supporting the Chengdu Panda Reserve
I highly recommend visiting the Chengdu Panda Reserve for an up close and personal look at these unique black-and-white bears. Certainly go for the English guide, but the photo op is completely up to how important the experience is to you. On one hand, I certainly got to do something I’ve always dreamed of, and I was supporting a great cause. On the other, just know you’ll be really rushed and there isn’t much interaction for what you pay.
A neighboring building bricked up its windows overnight. The day before, this had been a classroom. When it re-opened a few days later, it had turned into office space. Just an example of the ongoing changes you witness in Shanghai.
Shanghai is always changing. Chances are that by the time you read this blog, many of the sites I observed and places I frequented will have experienced changes potentially involving bulldozers and wrecking balls. The sounds of construction are ubiquitous. It’s a city where you can visit your favorite noodle restaurant Monday, find it closed Tuesday and re-opened as a French delicatessen Wednesday.
Working in Shanghai
The Chinese work experience is still influenced by years spent under absolute Communism. You see this influence when a shopkeeper does not go out of his way to provide ample customer service or makes a decision to maximize profits for this individual purchase without regard to potential revenues from future purchases. You see this influence as you enter a subway station and pass through a security checkpoint with three people assigned to direct your bag toward the X-ray machine, not really caring if you choose not to do so, and two more employees sitting behind the X-ray desk but staring more intently at their cellphones than the display. You see this influence when you enter a fast food restaurant and attempt to carry your trash to the bin, but instead you are intercepted and glared at by the employee assigned to pick up trash from tables. The trash strewn throughout the restaurant necessitates that person’s job, and he doesn’t want you taking away that necessity by throwing away your own trash. Only IKEA’s cafe has attempted to buck this trend by hanging signs that cleaning up after yourself will help keep costs low. IKEA, too, however, has learned that you must adapt to Chinese culture and tolerates clientele who choose to nap on their showroom beds for an hour or two while visiting the store.
I was told that conditions were even more distinguishable before Chinese economics became driven by “two systems.” In the 1980s it was impossible to find a hotel room. A traveler would enter hotel lobby after hotel lobby being told the hotel was filled to capacity while rarely encountering a guest. Hotel owners and staff were paid the same regardless of the amount of work they performed and handed revenues over to the government; therefore, with no incentives to increase take-home pay, they simply told most potential guests that all rooms were occupied and avoided the labor required when checking someone in and cleaning his room. In this Internet age, we didn’t have trouble locating vacancies in hotels; however, upon being unable to book on a Chinese airline’s website, I contacted customer service for assistance and was told that if I continued to have trouble I should book through Orbitz or Expedia instead of the airline.
The age of Communism has brought women into an equal standing with men in the workplace. You see women doing every job that men perform, from heavy construction and roofing to office leadership. It’s ironic, in fact, that although the one-child policy has led to China having less young women than young men, I met single independent female office managers much more frequently in China than in other countries I’ve resided. One Shanghai resident, told me, “In the past in China, the woman stayed in the home and the man worked. This was due to religious beliefs. When the Communist Party came, however, and outlawed religions, they also liberated women. Everyone went to work for equal salary. Today, it’s almost impossible for a man to support his family if he only works because taxes in China are based on a single person and not on the family. So much of his salary will go to taxes as if he were single, and he will not have enough money for the family to live a good life.”
A mother reviews the marriage candidates in hope of finding a suitable one for her child. At the marriage market in People’s Square, parents search profiles of potential partners and consult with matchmakers to find acceptable spouses for their children.
While these “Lost Women,” as single working women are known in China, are considered acceptable to younger Shanghainese who continue to marry at later ages, it is quite troublesome to older members of the family who covet relationships and family and its integral place in Chinese history. You’ll find no better place to observe this than the marriage market in People’s Square Saturday mornings. Here, parents converge and look at statistics of other singles while talking to matchmakers and excitedly calling their offspring with potential prospects. However, traditionally, a man must pay for a house and wedding expenditures before the ceremony is arranged. In Shanghai, a city more expensive than other parts of China, this brings a steep price tag of 2 Million RMB on average ($333,000 USD), equal to the salaries of 116 people in Gansu Province.
If you own a business in Shanghai, it’s also quite common to have to completely overhaul your work force following the annual Chinese New Year holiday. This is because many people who have come to the city to gain experience go home for the holiday, receive a job offer utilizing their newly obtained skills, and decide to stay home rather than return to the city of smog, high prices and homesickness. Many businesses setup a bonus scheme with payouts at this time of year, requiring the post-holiday trek back to Shanghai before an employee can receive his bonus.
Shanghai Eats
The iconic Lucky Cat gets a NYC makeover at Fortune Cookie. American Chinese food is the menu at this one-of-a-kind restaurant in Shanghai.
Shanghai is the first international hub I’ve lived in which I felt that I could satisfy literally any craving for any type of cuisine. Some restaurants, such as Stubb’s Bar-B-Q from Texas or my favorite American breakfast spot in Shanghai, Hillbilly Tea of Louisville, Ky., actually set up their second locations in Shanghai, and maintain only one location per hemisphere. If you’re in the mood for German, try Abbey Road. If you’re looking for a British pub to watch the Premier League game, head to The Camel. You can even find Americanized Chinese food, with the accompanying fortune cookie (yes, that’s an American invention) at the appropriately named Fortune Cookie restaurant. As in most countries outside of North America, just don’t go looking for good Mexican food.
All holidays and celebrations also come to Shanghai. We never knew that Canada had a separate Thanksgiving Day until it was celebrated in Shanghai. For our American Thanksgiving we enjoyed our turkey and dressing with a side of salsa and belly dancers at Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse.
China has its own fast food restaurants, such as this Kung Fu that serves traditional Chinese food on the go and Dico’s that is a main competitor to KFC.
You will find a plethora of American fast food restaurants in Shanghai, particularly those owned by YUM Brands. Our apartment was within a couple of blocks from hundreds of restaurants in Xujuahui, including Subway, Dairy Queen, Carl’s Jr., Papa John’s, McDonald’s, Burger King, Pizza Hut and KFC. However, despite being your favorite American brand, they may not accept your credit card as most Chinese businesses accept only cash and possibly the Chinese credit card UnionPay. This may apply even at Pizza Hut. Speaking of Pizza Hut, most Chinese people go there not to dine on pizza but to order shrimp and steak. KFC is everywhere as is its domestic Chinese rival Dico’s. In Shanghai, Uncle Fast Food is popular and Kung Fu also appears interesting, although I found neither chain appealing.
A Shanghainese style Friday night involves a trip to a restaurant, preferably Hot Pot on most occasions, followed by a trip to Karaoke Television (KTV). A Hot Pot restaurant in China is basically like what Americans know as the Melting Pot chain, except that the Chinese would be baffled by the fact that Americans see it as a premium restaurant and actually pay extra to cook their own food at the table. Choose your mushrooms and vegetables along with some beef, pork and lamb and mix it all together in the simmering pot built into your table. If you’re at a low end restaurant, skip on the lamb. It is wildly popular in China, leading to large quantities of imports from New Zealand and fakes (also known as cat) for restaurants that do not have the means to stock it.
If you’re looking for street food, be cautious but don’t pass up on the opportunity. Our friends recommend Qibao, Shanghai’s closest “water town” with plenty of street food popular with Chinese tourists.
The nightlife in Shanghai is ever changing so we won’t mention any specific clubs here. As a Westerner, however, you’ll have plenty of businesses competing for your attention as the sight of Westerners in an establishment leads to a site being tagged as high-end and desirable for many wealthy Chinese to join them. If you find a promoter to grant your entrance, you’ll therefore pay no cover charges and have a selection of free drinks. Many of these establishments take up residence at The Bund, a row of historically significant buildings established by British settlers that today has the best view of Pudong’s famous Shanghai skyline.
A foreigner in Shanghai
As light skin is highly valued in the culture, Chinese people can take extreme measures to avoid harmful UV rays. The facekini women wear to the beach is just one example.
Anytime you leave the major city in China, prepare to face the paparazzi like a Hollywood star back home. People in rural areas have in their lives rarely seen Caucasians and in Chinese pop culture, whitened skin is seen as most beautiful. Chinese women will actually apply topical agents and makeups to permanently and temporarily whiten their skin. The same intention of ensuring their skin does not darken led to the popularity of the infamous Chinese facekini on China’s beaches. Whether they see you as beautiful or maybe as a huge freak, the Chinese people who have not often encountered foreigners will openly snap your pictures with their phones and cameras. Others will rush to you and ask for you to pose with them. Some may even throw their babies into your arms so that they can tell their son or daughter years later about the time he or she met a Westerner. Watch out, though, for the ‘xiao pi hai’ as babies are thrown in your direction. Diapers are not so common in China and this is the term that refers to Chinese toddlers who wear open seated pants that expose their bare buttocks so they’re ready to drop waste at any moment, possibly on that IKEA mattress mentioned above. The term was also used to describe Justin Bieber as he paraded through China, having his bodyguards carry him through attractions such as the Great Wall so that he was not “weakened.”
Shanghai is nice for international residents because you can find so many pieces of home, but if you’re in Shanghai for a short period of time, avoid those niceties and see something authentic. Take a walk down Beijing Lu rather than the overly touristy Nanjing Road nearby and you will have a completely different impression. Rather than being swarmed by men selling fake watches and exchanging money under familiar neon signs of businesses seen in every major city, you’ll see pajama-clad Shanghainese people going about their daily life.
Getting around Shanghai
The Shanghai subway is the best method of transportation in the city. Beware the buses, though, and the be cautious when using taxis if you don’t speak the language.
The quickest way into town from the airport is on the Maglev train but check its location versus where you’re actually headed. Chances are you’ll still have quite a distance to go once you disembark. If you don’t have much luggage and it’s early, Chinese public transportation is excellent and it’s quite easy to navigate the metro, with plentiful English announcements and maps. Do not expect this same simplicity on public buses. Westerners will quickly find that they do not have the amount of personal space that they are accustomed to and that the pushing and shoving on to the subway is not considered rude – it’s just a part of the culture. Getting off the subway often requires pushing through a horde of oncomers of all ages who rush for available seats like Western preschoolers playing musical chairs. If you take a taxi, bring the address in Chinese text or download the translational phone app as 99 percent of taxi drivers do not speak English. Counterfeit money is also an issue, so if you are riding the taxi along an obvious tourist path (airport to hotel) watch closely for scams and do not allow your 100 RMB bill to leave your sight until you are sure it has been accepted. A taxi driver may switch your bill with a fake and then claim to have no change.
The method Westerners are generally told to avoid is driving. While we have driven in most international destinations, we did not drive in China. Taxis and drivers are cheap compared to most other destinations. Meanwhile, a Westerner is seen as likely more wealthy than the average Chinese person and many people are said to see a Westerner as the potential largest payday of their life if they happen to be “injured” by him. One Chinese man told us, “In China if an old man falls in the street, no one dares to help him because there are too many liars and extortionists who will say you caused him to fall. We have a traditional story in China about a man and a wolf. The man helps the wolf again and again but finally the wolf eats the man. This is how we feel in China, that a man who does good will often have bad done to him.” Adding to the complexity, although rarely enforced, it is officially illegal for a foreigner to use a GPS device in China.
Another health hazard that Westerners often hear is the smog. It’s not so bad in summer when the clear beautiful shots of the Pudong skyline are printed in July and August issues of periodicals around the world. In the winter months, however, when little rain and heating sources are fired up across the metro area, smog descends on the city. The rest of the world has taken their pollution problems and moved them to China through the build up of industry. Needing jobs for such a large population, China has accepted those problems with open arms as a necessary evil. When smog hit record levels this winter, China “fixed” the problem by changing the scale that measures pollution so that it doesn’t reach that height again. Beijing had another solution – destroying barbecue grills.
Shopping in Shanghai
Antiques can be found in many street markets throughout Shanghai, but Dong Tai Road Antiques Market offers the most variety. A sought after item, citizens were required by law to carry a copy of Quotations from Chairman Mao (the small red book to the left) on their person at all times during the Cultural Revolution.
China is not so keen on intellectual property protection and the big magnet for tourists in this regard is found at 580 Nanjing Xi Lu. Here, hawkers begin negotiations at astronomical prices, possibly higher than you could purchase the real item in some cases. As you enter, you’ll pass posters adorning the entrance referring to the Chinese government’s fight to protect intellectual property with notices that the trade is illegal. This warning is basically all that the Chinese government does to comply with international trade laws. If you do decide to venture inside and test your negotiating skills for some grey area merchandise of questionable quality, check out recent prices negotiated by other customers.
Major neighborhoods in Shanghai each contain DVD stores where the latest titles (cinema and DVD releases) can be purchased for 10 RMB or less (6 RMB = 1 USD). Ironically, the ease of piracy through P2P software has put many of these pirates-for-profit out of business in less populated neighborhoods.
For other shopping needs, Shanghai likely has a market to fit your desires. The Dong Tai Road Antiques Market is a great place to find souvenirs. “Antiques,” however, may have been made last year. Many business travelers head directly to the South Bund Fabric Market and have their dimensions measured up for a suit or dress to be prepared during the next 24-48 hours. Be ready to negotiate at either place.
Rating Shanghai
I give Shanghai an 8. What city is your “world hub” where you feel that you can find absolutely anything you desire?
At the Taiqing/Xiaqing Palace, known as the birthplace of Taoism/Daoism, blue beads form the entrance to a 30,000-square-meters reserve. Blue is a reverent color in the religion, representing the natural flow of water.
The final religion in the three-part series is the tradition of being at harmony with your environment. Taoism, as it is historically known, started to be called Daoism in the 1950s when the Pinyin system of transcribing Chinese characters to the Latin alphabet was developed. The tradition is based on the folk culture of China, permeating today’s society.
Who was Tao/Dao?
The creation of Taoism/Daoism is attributed to Lao Tzu, a Chinese philosopher of the 6th Century BC. Conflicting accounts of his life place him as a real and mythical character in Chinese history. Traditionally, it is believed Tzu was an official with the royal court during the Many Dynasties period. Here he had access to ancient texts to create the Daodejingor the Bible of Taoism/Daoism.
As a demigod, Tzu is believed to come to Earth through a virgin conception, being born already an old and wise man who lived 900 years. He embodied the Tao and traveled throughout ancient Asia revealing the way to reach a state of ecstasy after he spent years leading the life of a hermit in meditation and reflection.
A statue of Lao Tzu at the Taiqing/Xiaqing Palace shows the philosopher in meditation. Though his actual existence is debated, Tzu is credited with the creation of the religion.
Though Tzu never began any schools of his own, he did have disciples that continued to hand down his teachings until the first writings about him appeared in the 1st Century BC. The oldest form of the Daodejing dates back to bamboo slips in the late 4th Century BC. Today, various sects of Taoism/Daoism have emerged in his honor.
What is Taoism/Daoism?
In Mandarin, the word”Tao” literally translates to “way.” As in Buddhism, living a life dedicated to Taoism/Daoism principles can deliver believers to a state of enlightenment. The tradition shares many other similarities to Buddhism, such as the detachment from material possessions and appreciation for what you currently have.
There are two camps of Taoism/Daoism. Some view the tradition as a religion while others prescribe to only the philosophy. The philosophy and religion emphasize living a life of harmony through the main concept of non-action or wu-wei. Compared to the nature of yielding water, wu-wei is about going with the flow, allowing the universe to be without interruption of intention or force.
A follower worships at the altar of Tzu at the Taiqing/Xiaqing Palace. As a religious symbol, believers pray to him for guidance.
Along with this uninhibited flow, naturalness is also important in Taoism/Daoism. Especially relevant in Traditional Chinese Medicine, this value is practiced through treatment and prevention that comes from Earth-derived substances and body-flow exercises. In this vein, the Yin-and-Yang concept of balance is also found in the tradition.
Known as the Three Jewels of Taoism/Daoism, the core virtues of ci or compassion, jian or moderation, and bugan wei tianxia xia or humility are expected characteristics of any follower. These virtues have affected everything in the Chinese culture from health to politics.
Taoism/Daoism in China
Taoism/Daoism was officially recognized in China during the Tang Dynasty when the royal family claimed Tzu as an ancestor. The common family name Li also traces roots back to Tzu. The philosopher has been praised by various political affiliations throughout time: Anarchists believe his writings on “rightful power” form a basis for the concept while Libertarians praise his idea of individualism in society and smaller government to create social harmony. Through its non-aggression and non-authoritative stance, Chinese revolutionists have often drawn inspiration from Taoism/Daoism.
A Taoist/Daoist monk works on a calligraphy painting. In blue robes, these monks also practice martial arts and other activities associated with the religion.
Like the other religions in this series, Taoism/Daoism has enjoyed periods of popularity and struggled through episodes of disfavor. Schools of the religion first began to appear in the 2nd Century. In 1956, the Chinese Taoist Association was officially created. It was disbanded during the Cultural Revolution but regained official status in the 1980s. Today, the CTA is on a mission to share the principles of Taoism/Daosim with the world.
Your thoughts on Taoism/Daoism?
Though it’s difficult to pinpoint a number of followers for the religion since it is intertwined with so many other traditions, the best estimates place about 400 million people worldwide practicing some form of Taoism/Daoism. What do you think of the religion? What would you want to know more about?
At the Nashan Buddhism Cultural Park in Sanya, China, those who enter through the Dharma Door of Nonduality obtain “the enlightenment of Nirvana of tolerance of the birthlessness of things and beings.” Enlightenment is the highest goal in Buddhism.
Living in China and visiting Tibet (Chris will be posting about that soon), we saw many beautiful Buddhist temples with monks in their orange robes carrying out daily duties of scroll and temple maintenance, religious ceremony and meditations, and visitor relations. Viewing the various relics and traditions, you come to realize how complex and ingrained in the Chinese culture the religion is. Buddhism, with its several branches, can be witnessed throughout Chinese society as the largest religious affiliation in the country, covering about 16 percent of the adult population.
Who was Buddha?
The name Buddha literally translates in Sanskrit to “awakened” or “enlightened one.” It generally means the first awakened person in an era. In Buddhism, the Supreme Buddha, or first awakened being of our time, is attributed to Siddhartha Gautama, an Indian scholar. Historians document his life somewhere between the 6th and 4th centuries BC.
There are accounts of his coming to Earth through a virgin birth as an already- perfect being (sound familiar? Yep, another tradition that stretches across all religions). More realistically, Gautama was born to ancient Indian royal parents in what is believed to be present-day Nepal.
The statue of Buddha in Leshan, China, is the world’s largest stone representation of the holy leader. The Supreme Buddha was an Indian scholar by the name of Siddhārtha Gautama.
After living the royal life style for almost three decades, popular belief dictates Gautama escaped from the palace in his late 20s to witness the elderly, sick and dying people of his kingdom for the first time. Moved by this display of human suffering, he began a life forsaking all worldly pleasures and committing to a strict regiment of meditation and Yoga to find enlightenment through travel and study.
No doubt you can recall a story about the Supreme Buddha sitting under the Boddhi Tree meditating for 49 days until he found enlightenment. This came during what is believed to be Gautama’s mid-30s after almost dying of starvation from his austere lifestyle. After his brush with death, the Buddha declared living in either extreme was not the right path and began practicing the Middle Way.
After his awakening, the Buddha spent the rest of his life traveling and spreading the teachings of what his enlightenment had brought him. As he traveled, he acquired many followers, the first of many Buddhist monks and nuns. He passed down his teachings orally until the first Buddhists scrolls appeared almost 400 years after his death at around 80 years old.
What is Buddhism?
Buddhism is a religious path toward enlightenment. As previously stated, there are several branches of the religion. The three main traditions, Theravada, Mahayana and Vajrayana, are further broken down into sub-branches of the religion. Though the traditions vary in beliefs, common concepts exist in all three.
A guardian stands watch at the Baiju Temple at Palcho Monastery in Tibet. For concerned parents, protection by the guardians can be invoked by monks placing a black mark upon a child’s nose, much like anointing with oil in the Christian faith.
First, reverence is paid in a god-like fashion to the Buddha. In every Buddhist temple, you will find many forms of the Buddha represented in various statues. In Tibet, the red Buddha represents wisdom whereas the gold Buddha provides protection. My personal favorite, the black evil-faced creatures are the four protectors, based on an agrarian concept representing wind, snow, rain and sun. In China, there is the reclining Buddha and Laughing Buddha. Other forms of the Buddha symbolize the past, present and future. Worshipers light incense and bow three times to the statues, asking for good fortune or wisdom.
Next, all traditions practice the Middle Way, the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path. The Four Noble Truths address the main concept in Buddhism: suffering or dukka. Buddhists believe to end suffering, you must find content in what you are, what you already have, by giving up and relinquishing control. Once you are able to reach this stage, you free your mind, body and soul from all Earthly boundaries. Discovering the Truths of (1) dukkha, (2) the origin of dukkah, (3) the cessation of dukkha, and (4) the path leading to the cessation of dukkha all help you reach that level.
This Wheel of Dharma symbol at the Ramoche Temple in Lhasa, Tibet is flocked by two deer that legend holds were so enamored by the Buddha’s first sermon in the woods they laid down to listen to him. The Wheel of Dharma represents the Buddhist life stages.
The Noble Eightfold Path is the way to end suffering and enter Nirvana, the highest attainment in the religion. To follow the Path, one must obtain the right (1) view, (2) aspiration, (3) speech, (4) action, (5) livelihood, (6) effort, (7) mindfulness and (8) concentration.
The Path is often represented in the Wheel of Dharma, a concept of a cosmic law and order. In the Wheel, there are six stages of the Buddhist life through reincarnation and karma. The first and lowest stage is equivalent to a idealistic hell, souls in continuous strife and struggle. The next stage is a step above hell. Creatures with thin necks and big bellies preside here, always hungry but can never get enough to eat. The third stage is a place of animals where they suffer because they can’t communicate with humans. The fourth stage is a war of fighting spirits. Next are humans who suffer trying to find enlightenment. The sixth and final stage is a dimension of super beings (think angles). Outside of the Wheel, you find Buddha and other beings who have reached enlightenment.
Finally, all the traditions believe anyone is capable of reaching enlightenment. This special place of boundlessness is not only reserved for Buddhas and their direct disciples, but anyone willing to follow the teachings and practice the lifestyle of Buddha can attain awakening.
Buddhism in China
The traditional Chinese lions protect temples and other structures. Here, a female lion (identified by the cub she has, whereas a male stands upon a globe to represent the interconnectedness of the world in the Buddhist faith) at the Jing’an Temple in Shanghai protects the interior while her male counterpart protects the exterior. Since lions are not indigenous to China, it is believed the manes on these sculptures were made after the Buddha. The short hair is similar to the Buddha’s after he forsake his royal patronage and shaved off his long hair.
Buddhism found its way to China from India around the 1st or 2nd Century during the Han Dynasty. By way of the Silk Road, believers entered Mongolia and began to develop Buddhist schools throughout the land. As it was culturally assimilated to the native society, Chinese Buddhism mixed in quite a bit of Taoism/Daoism beliefs to help make it understandable for the locals.
The traditions of Mahayana and Vajrayana are the most practiced in China, though even these have been adapted to fit the Chinese culture. In the Mahayana tradition, believers strive to reach enlightenment for the sake of all beings. This tradition has scriptures dating all the way back to the 1st Century BC that instruct followers in the belief of supernatural beings who embody the excellence of the Buddha. The Vajrayana traditions is mainly found in Tibet, but there are also followers on the mainland. A tantric form of Buddhism, this tradition believes some teachings can only pass from teacher to student through empowerment and not from literature.
During the Cultural Revolution, many temples and ancient relics were destroyed, and monks that defied the government were either murdered or mysteriously went missing. Though the Communist Party has relaxed its rules on religion in the country since Mao Zedong’s death in 1976, Buddhism continues to operate under government control. The Buddhism Association of China, though it offers educational resources, keeps monks and other temple leaders in check.
Buddhist monks lead followers in a small ceremony honoring the Buddha with incense at Longhua Temple in Shanghai.
A resurgence in the religion has recently taken place as the Chinese government invests in the reconstruction and upkeep of temples. Though originally economic ventures in making the temples tourist attractions drove these investments, the local governments are now urging temples to return to their religions meanings as over commercialization is spreading rapidly in the country.
Your thoughts on Buddhism?
Buddhism is the fourth largest religion in the world today with estimates between 350 to 550 million practitioners globally. What do you think of Buddhism? What would you like to learn more about?
The Shanghai Confucian Temple is the only surviving school of Confucianism in the city. Though no longer teaching, the temple is open for reflection and meditation.
Religion in China has a long and varied history. Through devout ancient worship of ancestors to today’s atheist Communist Party, China has seen its share of belief structures. Today, only five religions are officially recognized by the Chinese government: Buddhism, Taoism/Daoism, Islam, Catholicism and Protestantism. In this three-part series, I will be taking an individual look at two of the more unique religions in the country plus an unrecognized one that is widely practiced: Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism/Daoism.
A brief history of religion in China
In the ancient dynasties of China’s origins ancestor worship was the belief of the time. People set up elaborate altars to invite and respect family members who had crossed before them. Divination practices, such as oracle bones, were highly regarded.
A loose timeline of the ruling dynasties in Chinese history.
Confucianism was adopted in the Han Dynasty. It was also during this time that Buddhism made its first appearance in the country, believed to come by way of India through the Silk Road. Emperors began to rule under a mandate of divine appointment, believing their placements were ordained by the gods.
Prayer ribbons flap in the breeze at the Shanghai Confucian Temple. Asking for favor, there are three important goals in Confucianism: 1. To get married 2. To meet a friend/acquaintance in an unusual place 3. To find your name on the passing list for government employment exams.
During the period of Many Dynasties, schools of Buddhism began to grow throughout the land, underpinned by the teachings of Confucius. It was also during this time that philosopher Lao Tzu developed the foundation for Taoism/Daoism.
Throughout the Tang to the Ming dynasties, these three religions enjoyed ups and downs, freedom and oppression depending on the whims of the ruling class. As the land became more open to foreigners during the Ch’ing Dynasty, Europeans introduced Christianity to the Chinese people. Under the Republic of China, religious freedom was enjoyed, and many religious structures, such as churches, synagogues, mosques and temples, were built.
After the Communist Party’s victory and the rise of Mao Zedong in 1949, the People’s Republic of China took a hostile approach to religion. Atheism became the designated stance of the nation, and many religious buildings were turned into government offices.
With the end of the Cultural Revolution and the adoption of the 1978 Constitution of the PRC, religious freedom with restriction has been granted in the country. An ongoing revitalization of religious structures can be seen throughout China, but some beliefs, such as Falun Gong, are perceived to be a threat to the government and still face oppression and human rights violations.
Who was Confucius?
A typical Confucian garden incorporates elements from Taoism/Daoism and Buddhism. The pagoda comes from Buddhism’s roots in India, and the great rock represents Yin & Yang energies in Taoism/Daoism. The willow and pine trees relate to longevity.
During a time known as the Warring States, a low-level magistrate yearned for peace as many kings with their strong armies attempted to take over their neighbors (think Game of Thrones). He believed that to create a congenial society, people must develop respect for each other through gaining knowledge. If he could teach the barbaric warlords literature, art, poetry and music, then this knowledge would lead to the respect needed for peace.
The youngest and only able-bodied son, Confucius was born in roughly 550 BC to a 72-year-old father and 18-year-old mother after nine sisters and one sickly brother. Later in life, he would come into government work and befriend Lao Tzu, who would be an early mentor for him.
Encouraged by Lao Tzu, Confucius left government work to spread his teachings on how culture was needed to influence politics for peace. Though largely ignored, he did set up schools that taught his philosophies. As it so often happens, his teachings would not find fame or appreciation until after his death around 480 BC.
What is Confucianism?
A typical Confucian classroom, students would sit lower than the teacher. This relates to the loyalty and respect of position ideal in Confucianism.
Though I’m classifying the philosophy into the religious category for the purpose of this blog series, Confucianism is more of a humanism than a spiritual religion. The ethical system focuses on the scholarly study of humanities to become the best possible person. There are many teachings in Confucianism that deal with society, government, the state of humanity, life at home and much more. Entire series of books have been written on Confucianism, so for the sake of brevity, I will focus on two of my favorite Confucius quotes and how they relate to the philosophy.
1. Real knowledge is to know the extent of one’s ignorance.
As the cornerstone, Confucius always strove for knowledge. No matter how much you learn, there is always more to learn. No mater who you meet or what you experience, there is knowledge to be gained.
2. Do not do unto others what you would not have them do unto you.
Look familiar? The good ole’ golden rule (and just a side note, every religion in the world has some similar belief). In Chinese, there is a concept known as “ren” or 仁. It most closely translates to altruism in Western culture. Man may not be born good or evil, but his actions are what speaks and defines him.
Confucianism in China
Much of China’s culture, society and government has been influenced by the teachings of Confucius. As proper etiquette was so enforced in Confucianism, we still see this in the traditions of Chinese tea ceremonies. Until 1911, to obtain a job with the government, imperial exams were given that tested a person’s grasp of Confucianism concepts. The Communist Party’s ideal of keeping everyone the same pay levels comes from Confucius’ believe of equality among all people. The high regard for one’s parents in Chinese culture comes from the Confucius belief that loyalty to personal positions and relationships was of the utmost importance.
Confucius began from humble beginnings to reach a god-like stature after his death. His philosophy included lifelong learning, loyalty, respect and kindness
Throughout history, Confucianism has come in and out of favor in China. During the early 20th Century, Confucianism principles were blamed for China’s economic downturn. Scholars were ridiculed and persecuted during the Cultural Revolution. Presently, though, there has been a revival in Confucianism thought, even movements to change the Chinese National Teacher’s Day to Sept. 28, the believed birthday of Confucius.
Your thoughts on Confucianism?
Confucianism has not only influenced China, but scholars and societies around the world have put actions in place based on the philosophy. What do you think of Confucianism? What would you like to learn more about? Do you have a favorite Confucius quote?
Maybe the oddest Chinese herb, this spider-looking species is half plant, half insect. The crossbreed can only grow on the plateaus in the Himalayan Mountains as the wind carries fungus spores and deposits them in the larvae of moths founds in the area. As the larvae and spore grow, the winter worm or summer grass is then harvested to be used as cough suppressants and other Yang supplements.
Western Doctor: What are your symptoms?
Chinese Doctor: How are you feeling?
Western Doctor: What is your temperature and blood pressure?
Chinese Doctor: How is your energy?
Western Doctor: Take these tablets three times a day for one week. Call me if you’re not better in seven days.
Chinese Doctor: Drink this tea each day for two weeks and concentrate on seeking balance. Come back in after two weeks and let’s see where your energy is.
The Philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine
Chalked up to a combination of being raised on Southern favorites made with too much Crisco and sugar; trying every dish under the sun as we moved around; and learning to live with a lackadaisical standard of cleanliness in food consumption has made my stomach an enemy of state to my body. My symptoms are in line with Celiac Disease. To spare you the messy details, we’ll just say when attacks occur, it’s not pretty.
At the height of the symptoms, I sought out treatment through Traditional Chinese Medicine as I wanted to experience a new form of medical care. I was seen and treated at the Body & Soul Medical Clinics, a mix of Western and Chinese doctors specializing in TCM. While I’ve been treated at the facility, I have learned and experienced a lot about this ancient form of medicine and health.
To start, there are two overarching concepts provide the basis of the practice:
The Yin and Yang are “inseparable forces that complement and depend on each other.” photo credit: easyflow via photopincc
1. Yin & Yang
When I was in middle school, I loved to draw the Yin & Yang symbol. Half of my pre-teen jewelry collection had something to do with this emblem, but I really had no idea what it meant. It just looked cool.
After visiting the Body & Soul Medical Clinics and speaking with Dr. Doris Rathgeber, the general manager, it was explained to me, in the medical sense, as “inseparable forces that complement and depend on each other.” (As I have also learned in the spiritual sense, it can also mean there is good and evil in everyone.)
The Yin, the darker half, represents the inner source and the more female attributes. Organs classified in the Yin property include the liver, heart, spleen, lungs and kidneys. These are considered “solid and are occupied with the production, preservation and regulation of the body’s basic substances.”
The Yang, the lighter half, depicts the outer source and the more male characteristics. Organs in the Yang property include the gall bladder, small intestine, stomach, large intestine, urinary bladder, and major glands that work together with the lungs, spleen and kidneys to disperse liquid in the body. Characteristics of these organs “are hollow and have the task to receive, discern and excrete the body substances.”
Both halves make up the whole existence of a person, and when an ailment occurs, the halves are out of proportion.
As part of this concept is the relationship between blood and qi, or the life energy. The most important substances in TCM, they work together to form the physical, mental and spiritual body. “Qi represents the active energy Yang, and blood represents the passive energy Yin.”
2. The 5 Elements
As in nature-bound philosophies, there are organic elements that affect our sense of well-being. In TCM, these elements correspond to a major organ system in the body:
Wood – Liver
Fire – Heart
Earth – Spleen
Metal – Lung
Water – Kidney
As these natural elements interact in a constant motion with each other, the body’s systems depend on each other for health. When they are out of sync with each other, disease occurs. Treatment consists of balancing these elemental systems.
Diagnosis with Traditional Chinese Medicine
With small needles, acupuncture aims to open and realign the body’s meridians so qi can flow more naturally. For me, the most pain came at the pressure point on my hand.
In Western medicine, the body is observed and diagnosed in separation. If there is a problem with your foot, then just your foot is observed and treated. You take a Tylenol table for a headache and a Pepto-Bismol dose for your stomach. In the East, the body is considered as one energy system acting in a dynamic interaction with all elements. All of it must be considered to diagnose the problem.
In my first consultation at the clinic, the doctor observed my overall appearance, asked about my daily eating and sleeping habits, and performed a tongue and pulse measurement.
It is believed in TCM that the appearance of the tongue can speak to the functions of the inner body. On the back of the tongue, conditions of the kidney, bladder and intestines are shown; the right and left sides of the tongue are connected to the gallbladder and liver; the middle of the tongue relates to the symptoms of the stomach and spleen; and the tip of the tongue presents the case of the lungs and heart.
The pulse is checked in the hands and wrists. This diagnostic test tells the doctor about various workings in the body, such as energy levels, presence of dehydration and/or retention, and the possibility of blockages.
Treatment with Traditional Chinese Medicine
Though hard to swallow, literally, my herbal medicinal tea does wonders for my stomach condition. Many herbs in Traditional Chinese Medicine are taken boiled into a tea.
I (try very hard to) drink a Chinese medicinal herbal tea every morning. It’s absolutely disgusting. I was informed, though, the TCM belief is the more bitter the taste, the better it works. Mine should be working miracles then.
Herbs and organic powders are highly regarded in TCM for their healing properties. My morning tea consists of powders from plant-based ingredients such as rhizoma atractylodis and semen ziziphi spinosae. Other powders can come from insects, bird excretions, bones and horns.
I was also prescribed a series of acupuncture sessions to realign my qi along certain meridians in my body. TCM is all about balance, be it between the Yin and Yang, the 5 elements, blood or qi. In acupuncture small needles are used to open and redirect meridians so the qi can flow more freely. In my sessions, needles were placed in the top of my head, between my thumb and forefinger, around my navel, and the bottoms of my legs. The pain was minimal, with the sorest point being my hands, which I was told was most aligned to my stomach. Heating lamps were then placed above the needles, and I was left to rest with the needles in place for about 45 minutes at each session.
Other treatments I’ve read and been told about include cupping, placing warm cups on the skin to create suction that encourages blood flow; gua sha or scraping, using the horn of an animal to brusquely move across the skin to draw toxins out; moxibustion, the burning of mugwort applied directly or indirectly to the skin to promote the movement of cold spots and warm meridians; and various massage techniques that target meridians and unique problem areas.
Exercise in Traditional Chinese Medicine
Thought of as just exercise in the West, Tai-Chi also supports mental and spiritual balance. This slow-motion martial arts practice consists of flowing movements to improve flexibility and meditative abilities.
What we call exercises in the West actually have a much deeper spiritual and medical rationale in the East. These movements, such as Yoga and Tai-Chi, were developed as a means to prepare or treat the body in spirit as well as physicality.
Participating in a Tai-Chi class in China and Yoga in the States, I have learned how the gentle and fluid movements help with a multitude of physical abilities, such as flexibility and joint health, while these practices promote mental balance through meditation qualities. It’s also a plus that Tai-Chi is basically martial arts in slow motion.
West v. East?
When I follow the prescribed treatments in my TCM regiment as directed (I’m not the greatest patient), I can very much see and tell the difference in my body’s reaction to foods and my mental wellness. However, I still want my direct, in-and-out, to-the-point Western diagnosis and fix-me-up-quick treatment. The goal now is to combine these two forms to find a balance.
What style do you prefer? Would you be willing to try the Eastern version of medical care?
We picked up this traditional Chinese tea set in a Shanghai antique market. As Chinese tea is not seeped for long, there is no need for milk or sugar as more bitter tea needs in the West.
As in Morocco, tea has a deep cultural meaning for China. From parents discussing marriage arrangements to business deals of mega-millions to catching up with friends on a Sunday afternoon, personal and professional discussions are held throughout the country over small cups of various brews. Vice President Joe Biden even took part in a tea ceremony during his official visit to China last week.
If not in the tea houses, then you will find most people walking around with canisters of tea leaves, easily refillable with the many hot water dispensers found in offices, malls, train stations, airports and pretty much anywhere there is electricity. Read any travel book on China, and you’re sure to find mention of the Chinese people never far from one these flasks.
What does that have to do with the price of tea in China?
The history of tea in China is a convoluted one. Some accounts claim an ancient emperor was boiling drinking water on a particularly windy day when some foliage was blown into his cup. Not immediately removing the leaves, he discovered the tasty drink the mishap had created. For his book Oracle Bones, Peter Hessler interviewed a Chinese scholar, Victor Mair, in which the professor claims tea came from trading in the south, and that it was first viewed as a “barbarian drink … compare it to urine.” In the 15th Century, the famed British East India Company brought tea from China to England and eventually the New World.
Today, the tea business is a global industry worth billions of dollars. With research proving the wide array of health benefits and a developing taste worldwide, tea consumerism is on the rise.
Coming from the Camellia sinensis bush, the leaf buds of the plant are harvested in the spring and fall. The spring harvest is considered more valuable and organic. The buds are then used to make six types of Chinese tea:
1. White
The most delicate of the flavors, white tea comes from the soft fur still on the young tea leave buds. The leaves come from Fu Ding, a high and rocky environment where the fermentation is a sun-dried process. This tea can only be infused up to two times. Health benefits include use as a anti-inflammatory and a deterrent in cognitive diseases.
2. Green
Green tea is produced by roasting the leaves, oxidizing the flavor through direct contact with a heat source. The leaves come from An Ji, best known as the beautiful area of Yellow Mountain. Depending on the length of the oxidization process, the tea can have a nutty, fruity or floral flavor. The leaves can be infused up to four times. Green tea is believed to lower risks of cancer, osteoporosis and depression.
3. Yellow
The hardest of the teas to acquire, yellow tea comes from Huo Shan. The tea is roasted at higher temperatures than green tea and is pressurized. Providing a citrus flavor, this tea can be infused up to 15 times. Yellow tea is used as an aid in digestion.
4. Wu Long
Roasted on fire than twisted, wu long tea leaves endure a harsher oxidation process. This tea is used in the most formal Chinese tea ceremony and produces a more bitter floral taste. It can be infused up to eight times.
5. Red/Black
The strongest of the flavors, red/black tea is what is most familiar for Westerners. Produced by companies such as Lipton, this tea is seeped excessively and creates a bitter taste.
6. Dark
The most fermented, therefore the most flavorful and valuable of the teas, dark tea comes from the Hunan Province. With a strong astringent taste, this tea is drank after especially heavy or greasy meals for its digestion benefits. Infusion can take place up to 20 times. Dark tea is believed to lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels.
Mastering a Chinese tea ceremony
Sponsored by the Shanghai Expatriate Association, I recently attended a traditional Chinese tea ceremony with the Shanghai & Beyond tour agency at the Moonlight Tea House. Our guides, Tracy Lesh and Michael Wang, have been running tours about Chinese tea culture and water towns for the past several years. They enlisted the help of a local tea shop owner who had studied tea and the art of the ceremony at university to serve as the la shugung fu or “skilled teacher” for the event.
As we were seated, the tea shop owner stood at the head of the long table behind her tea set. She wore no makeup, jewelry or perfume as any of these could potentially taint the smell or flavor of the tea. She bowed and welcomed us in Chinese to the ceremony. She then took her seat and began bringing her instruments, the tea pot and cups, to a temperature accommodating to a gentle seep. Unlike in the West, Chinese tea is not meant to seep long, only enough to open the buds and release the flavor.
The teacher first heated the purified water to a temperature of about 80 degrees Celsius, as most of the teas don’t need to be seeped any hotter (another mistake we make in the West). During the ceremony, we tried five of the six types of tea, only excluding the red/black category. The la shugung fu started with the white tea and moved down the list, ending with the dark tea.
As each gesture is beautifully coordinated, the teacher demonstrated “orchard fingers,” the flowing hand movements she used to prepare the tea without ever touching the leaves. It was as if she was performing a ballet with her hands.
Video courtesy of Annie Kim
After the first batch of each tea was made, she would discard it as this is not meant to be consumed but just used to open up the leaves. The leaves are then re-infused for the sampling.
To drink, etiquette dictates that you hold the small cup by the thumb and forefinger, using the middle finger to support the bottom. Ladies are expected to use their left hand to cover the cup while you sip. Like wine, drinking the tea is a three-step process:
1. Slurp the tea in while you take air into your mouth. This helps oxidize the tea.
2. Hold it in your mouth while you roll your tongue. This allows all of your taste buds to experience the tea.
3. Swallow.
After we finished the samples, the la shugung fu then stood, bowed and wished us great health to conclude the ceremony.
Your own Chinese tea ceremony
How do you like your tea? For the first worktrotter to leave a comment below by Dec. 31, I’ll send you a package of green tea. Cheers to you!
Working with the black ink, the master calligrapher shows the class how to draw the character for “Shanghai,” 上海. In Chinese tradition, calligraphy was one of four arts to be accomplished by a gentleman scholar.
If I had been a student in the Chinese school system, I would have utterly failed my penmanship course. My English script is already a close comparison to, as my dad would say, chicken scratch, and the Chinese style is more akin to drawing. Chinese calligraphy is an art form in and of itself, and I, severely lacking in that department, made a mess of my attempt at creating the beautiful characters.
A short history of Chinese calligraphy
The Chinese writing system is an ancient one, only behind Sumerian cuneiform and Egyptian hieroglyphics. The characters are pictographs of what they represent, and, therefore, there are no letters as we know them in Chinese writing. The word for writing in Chinese, shu, literally translates to “to resemble.”
According to Peter Hessler’s Oracle Bones, a legend holds that the characters were created by a demigod as he observed animals and the tracks they left. As he witnessed these recognizable prints each species made, the demigod began to create a system that copied images in nature. Even today, if you look in the right way, representations can be seen in the shape of Chinese characters. For example, the traditional and modern Chinese character for “person” is “人.” In this character you can see a resemblance to the legs of a person, a stick figure with no head or arms.
Using a number system to identify which stroke to make when, the teacher taught me to draw the character for “pig,” my Chinese birth symbol. When not made in this sequence with this width, the character can become indistinguishable.
Hessler goes on to explain how once in ancient times the characters reached a point where they couldn’t explain abstract concepts, people turned to sounds to create the representations. Characters that already represented sounds were then combined to create these ideas in writing. Today, there are more than 10,000 characters in the common usage, and accounts claim more than 100,000 in ancient text.
Though, in my opinion, a difficult language to master and an even more complex writing system to learn, the Chinese characters embody the significance of the Chinese culture. While Westerners have led a push for a simpler system with an alphabet, resistance to this idea is understandable. The system, however, was reformed under communist leader Mao Zedong, being granted legal status in 1941. Today, most common writings, such as schoolwork, are completed in this simplified format. As a result, only those who have studied the form can read and write in the traditional system. Reform also saw the characters turned into a Latin-based format, so you will also see Chinese written in English characters in some instances, such as street signs.
Chinese calligraphy as an art form
The hand is positioned around the brush for a light hold, and it is preferred to hold the brush in your right hand regardless of which hand you use to write. There is a precise process in creating Chinese calligraphy from the position of the hand to the width of the strokes to the sequence of the movements.
As part of an InterNations Chinese Art & Culture seminar, I recently attended a class in Chinese calligraphy taught by a master calligrapher. Watching the flow of his brush, how his hand so delicately moved, was captivating. His grace in designing the characters was truly an artistic expression formed on paper. And, then there was me with blobs and splatters of ink all over the page. I think I might have just offended the teacher as he looked away from the mess I was making of his craft.
Chinese calligraphy is known as art form throughout the world. You see it decorating canvases, vases and buildings. In the West, much to the bemusement of the Chinese, we even have characters tattooed on us that we believe represent an important value. If you want to highly insult someone in China, do a sloppy job of writing his name in Chinese, especially slanting the top half of the pictograph.
There are only three colors in Chinese calligraphy: the white of the paper, the black of the ink, and the red used to make the stamps. There are soft and hard brushes made from sheep wool, wolf, fox or tiger fur, horse hair, and even the hair of a human baby. Softer brushes are used to make thick lines, and the harder brushes make the delicate thin strokes.
There is a systematic process to drawing each character. First, the calligrapher must hold the brush in a particular way. Using a paint-by-the-number system, each stroke must then be made in a certain sequence. The strokes must also be of precise lengths and thicknesses. The entire method is extremely meticulous.
Chinese calligraphy for you
Is there a character in Chinese you would like to know how to create? Let me know in the comments by Dec. 13, and I will try to get you the instructions to do so.
